[DeTomaso] headlight chatter

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

In a message dated 1/16/11 6:12:46 PM, chrisvkimball at msn.com writes:


> 2) There's a little rust on ends of the metal pipes leading to the 
> radiator.  After I wire brush them, should I paint them before I reinstall them, 
> or leave the bare metal on the ends?
> 
> 3) My headlights raise smoothly, but going down they chatter quite badly 
> (they have since I got the car 4 years ago; it hasn't gotten any worse).  
> Since the radiator is out, should I replace something to get them to go up 
> and down smoothly?
> 
> 4)  If the answer to #3 is yes, what is involved and what is the cost of 
> the parts I'd need?
> 
ANSWERS-
#1- charges at radiator shops vary a lot. Take the thing down to a few and 
get estimates. Remember, leaking core tubes are always fixed by pinching 
them closed, which reduces cooling capacity since water no longer goes thru 
pinched tube(s). It may also be that the cost for leak repair, 
disassembly/cleaning, pressure tests etc are a significant part of a much better aluminum 
Fluidyne radiator.... which is larger, 1/3 the weight, better cooling and 
completely welded. 
Aside from preventable corrosion, there are no downsides to aluminum but be 
very sure you get a welded, not an epoxy-sealed cheapo, and be sure you get 
all the accessories. Those include two right-angle fittings for the rad 
hoses, two screw-in thermostats for the fans and mounting brackets for the 
sucker-fan shroud. E-Bay Fluidynes will have few if any of the needed 
accessories; then you get to run around (electronically perhaps) to find all the 
stuff. Buy your Fluidyne from a vendor and they will all be included. Quella's 
aluminum rad package comes with welded right-angle tubes and a 
custom-fabricated, polished aluminum sucker-shroud with the fans and thermostats included. 
NEVER use Chinese tie-wraps to hold stuff to a radiator core! 

#2- if you paint the old pipe ends, it will help fuse the hoses to the 
smooth pipes to prevent leaks if a clamp loosens- and also make it more 
difficult for anyone removing them undamaged later on! And guaranteed, the long 
pipes are rusted nearly transparent somewhere along their length. Consider 
stainless replacements especially the twisty pipe that attaches to the water pump 
inlet, replacing the alomost unavailable two-sized curly Ford hose that 
fails from gearshift-shaft rubbing. 

#3- bobbing headlights are fixed with a simple adjustment. The headlight 
motor adjusts up and down a bit with the 3 mount bolts to drop the motor gear 
into full contact with the sector gear. No parts, no arcane measuring; just 
loosen the bolts and swing the assembly into tight contact, them retighten 
and try shaking the buckets. If they still move, readjust more. You need not 
remove any bolts. 
Good luck- J DeRyke