[DeTomaso] filling spot welds

[John Taphorn]

Lead is an alternative, although not the holy grail either.  My car was 
originally restored using lead as the primary filler.  It looked great for a 
few years and then started bubbling.  I thought it was rust creeping back; 
however, it was a reaction between the lead and the primer/paint.  Another 
body guy, supposedly knowledgeable working with lead, cleaned it back up. 
Many years later, telltale bubbling again.  The last body guy that I had 
address it, commented that the lead required a special sealer that wasn't 
applied.  He addressed it to his satisfaction and it looks good again.  Time 
will tell.  No lead for me in the future.

JT
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cullen McCann" <cmccann1972 at gmail.com>
To: "'Justin Greisberg'" <justingreisberg at hotmail.com>; <rimov at charter.net>; 
<detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2011 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] filling spot welds


> Your absolutely right.lead working is a real art and I have no idea how to
> do it. It's also a very old technology, but still a good one. My Sunbeam 
> had
> lead filled seams in many places from the "factory".Ill have to put a more
> modern filler back in where I below the lead out..because I don't know
> anything about it.but your right, it's an option.
>
>
>
> Cullen
>
>
>
> From: Justin Greisberg [mailto:justingreisberg at hotmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, February 14, 2011 1:41 PM
> To: cmccann1972 at gmail.com; rimov at charter.net; detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] filling spot welds
>
>
>
> probably all good points.  if you look at a master metal worker, they do
> more with lead than fillers.  it is art, and i tried it on my spot welds
> with fair results.  probably mostly just makes me feel good about it.  i 
> bet
> you can do fine with fillers here, especially something like fiberglass
> which might be less likely to crack.  but lead isnt all that hard to fill 
> a
> hole, and I hope will never crack.  having done all my metal work and
> painting myself on my car, i would use lead again for filling bigger holes
> or gaps, and use the body filler just in a thin coat to make it look nice
>
>
>
>
>
>> From: cmccann1972 at gmail.com
>> To: rimov at charter.net; justingreisberg at hotmail.com; detomaso at realbig.com
>> Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] filling spot welds
>> Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 11:38:39 -0600
>>
>> I have had some experience with various fillers, and I would like to back
> up
>> what Paul R. says here...Duraglass is a great product. It's very 
>> important
>> to note that not all "body fillers" are created equal. Some perform very
>> well for skim coats, some perform fine in thicknesses up to an 1/8th 
>> inch,
>> if you can tolerate knowing it's there. Some perform better at bare metal
>> only and some are just fine over primers...some tolerate some flexing and
>> have a higher plasticity and others are more brittle....just need to do
>> research on the right product and application based off of the condition
> of
>> your car and go from there. In general the Duraglass is a great place to
>> start...but it needs a lot of "tooth" for proper adhesion. A lot of 
>> people
>> judge all body fillers by the performance of incorrectly applied "Bondo".
>> The spot welds are ABSOUTELY capable of being filled without risk of
>> separation....if the right product is chosen and applied the right way...
>>
>> My two cents...
>>
>> Cullen
>> Rust project 3925
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] filling spot welds
>>
>> I would highly recommend using Duraglass. It is a fiberglass reinforced
>> resin filler. Easy to use, lightweight, durable and fills the dimples
>> extremely well. I did my engine bay many years ago with it and it was
>> excellent to work with. For best results it is best to top coat with a
> super
>>
>> thin layer of plastic filler then high build primer.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>
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