[DeTomaso] Front Cam Bearing

[Charles Engles]

Dear Jack,


         Umm, where would this highly valuable diagram of the internecine
oil flow path of a Cleveland engine be located?   I would be keen to see it
and have one for reference.   I second Asa's comment.


                   Warmest regards,  Chuck Engles

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of JDeRyke at aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2011 1:58 PM
To: chance.dorsey at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Front Cam Bearing

In a message dated 2/4/11 10:05:48 AM, chance.dorsey at yahoo.com writes:

> Does the .003 to .005 space create a restriction to the amount of oil 
> that goes between the bearing and the face of the thrust bearing?
> 
No- the thrust plate surface gets oiled by whatever leakage goes fwd 
between the #1 bearing & cam journal. On the right side of the #1 cam
bearing bore 
is a tiny 'scallop' in the casting that leads to a small drilled passage 
for oiling the base of distributor drive gear where it touches the block. If

you set the #1 bearing flush with the outside, this  passage is effectively 
covered and little or no oil goes to the gear interface. Ford says 0.003"
but 
anything up to about 0.010" works fine. 
The other thing of course, is to have the main camshaft oil feed hole up 
from the crank clear, as well as the side passage to the cam gear where it 
intersects the distributor drive gear. The block oil passages are 2-3X
larger 
than the holes in the cam bearings, so there's some variance possible. Years

ago I traced out all this and published an 'oiling map' of the unbelievably 
complex oiling system in the standard 351-C block, that showed all the feeds

and passages. But I neglected to specify the #1 bearing set-back amount. 
Its also pretty easy to install or adjust the bearing positions by using a 
mandrel sized for each bearing, with a threaded hole and a long threaded rod

that runs to the back (or front) of the block. By progressively tightening 
a nut on the rod against a washer across the block, the bearing can be 
slowly pulled into place. Much more precise than trying to calibrate hammer
blows 
driving the bearing in place. 
Machinests don't like fooling with 351-C cam bearings 'cause all 5 are 
different sizes, meaning you need 5 different mandrels to install them, and
5 
different set-ups if a few need honing after installation of new ones. But 
your #1 bearing should be OK as is. Good luck- J DeRyke
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