[DeTomaso] Driveshaft bolts--the final answer
Pantdino
pantdino at aol.com
Sat Dec 31 00:26:16 EST 2011
So it was just by dumb luck I did it right when i replaced my halfshafts!! 50:50 chance, after all. :-)
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: thomas <thomas at hax.se>
To: MikeLDrew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
Cc: detomaso <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Thu, Dec 29, 2011 1:01 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Driveshaft bolts--the final answer
I have a huge bag of bolts from Aircraft Spruce since I switched to CV-joints
nd initially bought the wrong length bolts, and I just compared them to my
tock bolts, and I get them both to .437", measured both with a digital caliper
nd an old micrometer. I get no repeatable difference between the bolts.
Thomas
29 dec 2011 kl. 21:11 skrev MikeLDrew at aol.com:
> Hi guys,
Got this from a well-known auto engineer and Pantera owner who chooses to
remain anonymous, but said I could repost this for him:
====
Mike,
So I get an e-mail from a P-car owner here in Detroit, that asks me what is
my take on the half shaft bolt thread on the forum. I tell him I don't read
the forum but for him I would look at the conversation.
So - which way do the bolts go in at the ZF. Nuts to the inside or nuts to
the outside. ???
Some people got the answer right, but nobody got the reason. NOBODY.
The bolts should go in with the nuts to the inside. Reason - - the counter
bore in the companion flange on the ZF is slightly smaller than that of the
counter bore in the half shaft. Just enough that the tips of the hex dig
into the radius of that counter bore. When the bolt is installed with the nut
to the inside, the counter bore in the half shaft flange is just large enough
to clear. So - you ask "what about the nut? Won't its hex tip dig in the
same? After all - it is also a 5.8" hex." Yes EXCEPT the SPECIAL lock
washers that go on that side elevate the nut enough to clear the counter bore.
> These are not standard lock washers. They have a much smaller diameter and
whole lot more thickness.
Your answer sir. :-))))
Of course, the only sample of this phenomenon that I have to work with is
MY car. As such, this is what I base my evaluation on. Other peoples (yours)
may be different. If you look closely, (again at least on mine) the hex tips
will dig into the radius of the counter bore on the ZF flange and the axle
companion flange. Not only does it create a stress riser, but it inhibits
the tensile load from being distributed in a uniform fashion over the flange
seat. On the other side you really should use the designated lock washer. It
really does elevate the nut so its hex tips are clear of the counter bore.
Yes - you should use nylock nuts. Note: A.N. bolts are equivalent to grade 5.
Ductile - not hard. They take shear loads without breaking. (well - some
people can break an anvil) :-)))) At these harnesses they are also very good
at tensile loads. I suspect NOBODY has actually torqued their nut/bolt. I
would estimate they could take 80-100 ft/lb no problem. I did it once before a
> long road trip, to 70. Not easy to get to. I probably did not get it exact.
Also - A.N. bolts are (by design) slightly smaller than the designated hole
size. i.e. 7/16 = .4375" The bolt shanks are .4330 to .4370. You ~could~
sort through a bin of them and probably find the required number of 'high
end' sized bolt. IMHO - not worth the time.
http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ra/an.html For reference.
====
So, there you go!
Mike
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