[DeTomaso] Driveshaft bolts--the final answer

[thomas]

I have a huge bag of bolts from Aircraft Spruce since I switched to CV-joints and initially bought the wrong length bolts, and I just compared them to my stock bolts, and I get them both to .437", measured both with a digital caliper and an old micrometer. I get no repeatable difference between the bolts.

Thomas

29 dec 2011 kl. 21:11 skrev MikeLDrew at aol.com:

> Hi guys,
> 
> Got this from a well-known auto engineer and Pantera owner who chooses to 
> remain anonymous, but said I could repost this for him:
> 
> ====
> 
> Mike,
> So I get an e-mail from a P-car owner here in Detroit, that asks me what is 
> my take on the half shaft bolt thread on the forum. I tell him I don't read 
> the forum but for him I would look at the conversation.
> 
> So - which way do the bolts go in at the ZF. Nuts to the inside or nuts to 
> the outside. ???
> 
> Some people got the answer right, but nobody got the reason. NOBODY.
> 
> The bolts should go in with the nuts to the inside. Reason - - the counter 
> bore in the companion flange on the ZF is slightly smaller than that of the 
> counter bore in the half shaft. Just enough that the tips of the hex dig 
> into the radius of that counter bore. When the bolt is installed with the nut 
> to the inside, the counter bore in the half shaft flange is just large enough 
> to clear. So - you ask "what about the nut? Won't its hex tip dig in the 
> same? After all - it is also a 5.8" hex."  Yes  EXCEPT the SPECIAL lock 
> washers that go on that side elevate the nut enough to clear the counter bore. 
> These are not standard lock washers. They have a much smaller diameter and 
> whole lot more thickness.
> 
> Your answer sir.  :-))))
> 
> Of course, the only sample of this phenomenon that I have to work with is 
> MY car. As such, this is what I base my evaluation on. Other peoples (yours) 
> may be different. If you look closely, (again at least on mine) the hex tips 
> will dig into the radius of the counter bore on the ZF flange and the axle 
> companion flange. Not only does it create a stress riser, but it inhibits 
> the tensile load from being distributed in a uniform fashion over the flange 
> seat. On the other side you really should use the designated lock washer. It 
> really does elevate the nut so its hex tips are clear of the counter bore. 
> Yes - you should use nylock nuts. Note: A.N. bolts are equivalent to grade 5. 
> Ductile - not hard. They take shear loads without breaking. (well - some 
> people can break an anvil)  :-)))) At these harnesses they are also very good 
> at tensile loads. I suspect NOBODY has actually torqued their nut/bolt. I 
> would estimate they could take 80-100 ft/lb no problem. I did it once before a 
> long road trip, to 70. Not easy to get to. I probably did not get it exact.
> 
> Also - A.N. bolts are (by design) slightly smaller than the designated hole 
> size. i.e. 7/16 = .4375"  The bolt shanks are .4330 to .4370. You ~could~ 
> sort through a bin of them and probably find the required number of 'high 
> end' sized bolt. IMHO - not worth the time.
> 
> http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ra/an.html  For reference.
> 
> ====
> 
> So, there you go!
> 
> Mike
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