[DeTomaso] And the saga drags on...and on...now to sway bar bolts.

[Larry Finch]

 Rob,

Been there, done this -

I realized there was still a good, thick stud head welded to the chassis structure.
Metal can be drilled and tapped.  :-)

My threads had broken off flush, but if yours didn't, grind them down until they are.

Then, take a couple of good, sharp drill bits and work your way up to the proper drill size
needed to tap new M6 threads in the welded-on bolt head. You want to be careful to not 
bind while drilling and possibly snap off the stud head; no telling how well it is really welded
into place. Then cut down an M6  bolt or some all thread to the needed length and thread
into your newly tapped threads.

In my case, with a January 1972 chassis and some effort, I was actually able to get a nut behind
the bolt head and with a double-nutted stud (Calling Larry in Cleveland), was able to lock the
stud in position. You could alternatively just jam-lock the new stud in place by using the double-nut
method to twist it until it solidly jams against the chassis metal behind the now-threaded bolt head.

In reality though, since there is no rotational force working to unscrew the stud once the sway bar
bracket is tightened, I don't think the stud really needs to be jam-locked in place at all. Only possible
problem then would be the stud keeps turning as you install the bracket retaining nut.

That issue could be overcome if you are using acorn nuts on the studs. In that case you could just
screw the stud into the acorn nut and install that assembly just as you would a hex-head bolt.
No acorn nuts? Then same idea would work with a double-nutted stud.

This repair has now held up for a number of years on 2511.

YMMV

Larry