[DeTomaso] Bolts for sets
boyd casey
boyd411 at gmail.com
Wed Sep 22 12:49:17 EDT 2010
On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 9:55 AM, Asa Jay Laughton <asajay at asajay.com> wrote:
> As a replacement if you aren't looking for originality, I simply
> replaced mine with some button-head socket cap screws, or something like
> that. OH, and I made them much shorter because I took out the aluminum
> blocks under the rails. Unfortunately, that made the stock bolts stick
> down way too far. After I took out the coil-over shock spring
> spacers... the seat bolts caught on a ramp when I had the front end
> aligned. Boy were they hard to get out after that.
>
Asa Jay
Boyd : 9/22/2010
> Once again I want to preface my comments by saying I am not an experet/ I
> just replaced my stock seates with aftermarket recarro style seats. My new
> seats would not fit in yhe original mounting holes. The original mounting
> holes incorporated metal slugs that were mounted between the inner and
> outter skin of the car floor. I think the most important things to keep in
> mind are that you Use hardware fasteners that are strong enough to support
> the application. if you move your anchor point away from the original anchor
> points and you no longer incorporate the slugs that were placed between the
> inner and outter skink you are going to cvollapse the floor's hollow point
> you make sure your new anchor point provides sufficent strenghth to provide
> an adequate anchor point. You can use the type of nut ( I don't remember the
> name it is similar as a turnbuckle nut Other wise you can use some other
> form os solid slug to take up the space between the upper and lower floor
> and also use larger pieces of reinforcement (like rectangular sheet steel or
> very heavy duty(Large Washers). It is essential that you strengthen the
> floor to be sure that the floor can support both the seats and racing
> harnesses. When you go into a hardware store like "Home depot or lowes you
> will see nuts and bolts that have no markings indicating their strength
> rating. These are yr cheapest and can be used for applications that will not
> be subject to matters of "Life or Death" like wheels, brakes, suspension ,
> seat belts etc. The next stage up are bolts are marked with numbers ( like
> 8-8, 9.9 , 10.9 or 12.9) besides indicating a degree of strength the also
> indicates a relative hardness and some are applicacable for applications
> that requiere the suitability for an application tat can withstand greater
> (or lesser shear strength. So although one may be much stronger from a
> standpoint of residtance to tension the will snap at the first application
> of significant shear stress. So it is extremeley important to identify the
> correct nut and bolt fpr the correct application. An error in this area
> could wind up causeing a fatal accident. The easiest way to may sure you are
> protected is by replacing the fasteners with fasteners of the same ratings
> from the service manual or speak to the vendoer you are making the purchase
> from. AS many people have mentioned it is considered "bad taste " to pick
> the vendors brain and then not buy the parts from the.. By going to google
> and researching ASA standards and nut and bolt or fastener strength
> standards you can get most of your questions answere nd you can also
> purchase books that explan this area of subject matter and while your at it
> pick up a book on A&N fittings and adapters a thread standards. This will
> save you countless hours of pulling your hair out and save yo allot of
> money. Before I did my research ( with the help of S.O.Bill he directed me
> to some A&N catalouges that where free. They showed all the A&N adapters and
> the varoius other fixtures that could be used to adapt A&N to other
> fixtures THAT WORKED!!. I purchase an A&N fitting from one of the vendors
> that I paod $45.00 bucks for. This was to attach my stainless steel fittiing
> (using an A&N fitting to an adapter that then fit my new Braided stainless
> steel line that went from the middle connection under my car that joined the
> brake line coming fro the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. I paid
> $45.00 plus tax and shipping and S. O. Bill showed me where to buy the same
> connection for $3.50. Bill his helped me make countless other purchases with
> equal savings just by pointing me to the right source and giving me the
> right questions to ask.
> The bible (somewhere) says catch a man a fish and you feed him once. Teach
> him to fish and can you feed him for the rest of his life ( or something
> like that.) ( I am not becoming a missionary it just seemed like a good
> example.)
> So following the standards for replacing existing hardware with the same
> standards as the original parts is the best plan. If you are installing a
> modified part I would suggest using the advice of the new design engineer.
> If the modification was not done by an engineer then I would proceed with
> caution and ask for advice from those on the list qualified to answer your
> questions.
>
Boyd
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