[DeTomaso] Dual master cylinders
Ken Green
kenn_green at yahoo.com
Sat Sep 11 17:32:48 EDT 2010
The pedal ratio on a stock Pantera brake pedal is something in the 4s for power brakes, the Wilwood and Tilton dual MC pedal assemblies are something like 6.25 to 1 for non-power brakes. You may get the right feel if you use MCs with piston areas opposite the ratio differences.
Ken
--- On Sat, 9/11/10, Gray Gregory <rgg at gregorycook.com> wrote:
From: Gray Gregory <rgg at gregorycook.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Dual master cylinders
To: "mikeldrew at aol.com" <mikeldrew at aol.com>, "ehpantera at yahoo.com" <ehpantera at yahoo.com>, "detomaso at realbig.com" <detomaso at realbig.com>
Date: Saturday, September 11, 2010, 2:03 PM
I had Quella's boosted set up in the race car and changed it out for a non boosted one (power brakes just don't give you the feel that you need in a race car). That being said in a street car I would definitely opt for power brakes. It's important to note that it's not just simply removing the booster. The two units have different bore sizes on the master cylinders. If you put a booster on the non power set up you would have way to much assist and conversely if you remove the booster from the power set up (which is what I think Geoff may have done?) it will require excessive pedal effort, so you need to order accordingly.
Gray
-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On Behalf Of mikeldrew at aol.com
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 4:32 PM
To: ehpantera at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Dual master cylinnders
Mark wrote;
I'm looking for some feedback from those who use CNC dual master
cylinders.
I currently have Quella's 4 piston Wilwood calipers.
Are you using the vacuum booster or not?
Comments and suggestions.
>>>Last year, I drove Geoff Peters' 1972 GT5 conversion from London to
Modena and back. It has Quella's brake package for 15 inch wheels, and
dual CNC masters with no booster. The brakes worked but it took an
uncomfortable heave on the pedal to get things happening. As it is a
RHD car, the pedal actuates a cross shaft which then presses on the
masters (which are still on the left side of the chassis). After much
debate, he agreed that he really should put the booster back in, as the
pedal pressure is excessive, and he is literally bending the shaft like
a torsion bar when he brakes hard.
If your question is, "To booster, or not to booster?" I would
definitely urge you to go for the booster.
Mike
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