[DeTomaso] Pandora question
John Buckman
jb841 at cox.net
Fri Nov 26 11:11:04 EST 2010
Chris,
Backing up to square one, did this timing issue start suddenly, or was it a gradual progression?
John
On Nov 26, 2010, at 4:00 AM, detomaso-request at realbig.com wrote:
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> 1. Re: Pandora question (Rob Dumoulin)
> 2. Re: Pandora question (Ken Green)
> 3. A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay (Ken Green)
> 4. Re: A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay (MikeLDrew at aol.com)
> 5. Re: lifter noise (boyd casey)
> 6. Re: lifter noise (John Bentley)
> 7. Re: Pandora question (John Bentley)
> 8. Happy Thanksgiving to all (Mike Grillot)
> 9. Re: Pandora question (JDeRyke at aol.com)
> 10. Re: lifter noise (Brian Ward)
> 11. Re: lifter noise (Brian Ward)
> 12. Re: A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay (JDeRyke at aol.com)
> 13. Thanks for the friendship and good times (LaurieFerrari at aol.com)
> 14. Re: Happy Thanksgiving to all (Dave Londry)
> 15. Re: A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay (Dave Londry)
> 16. Re: A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay (John Bentley)
> 17. Re: A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay (Brian Ward)
> 18. Pandora question (John Buckman)
> 19. NPC - Cool cars in Movies (Brent Stewart)
> 20. Re: Pandora question (Christopher Kimball)
> 21. Re: Pandora question (Asa Jay Laughton)
> 22. Re: Pandora question (Christopher Kimball)
> 23. Re: A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay (JDeRyke at aol.com)
> 24. Re: ? Pandora question (JDeRyke at aol.com)
> 25. Re: Pandora question (JDeRyke at aol.com)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 07:31:46 -0500
> From: Rob Dumoulin <rob at dumoulins.net>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
> Cc: Pantera List Serve <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Message-ID:
> <AANLkTi=uqCCEvyva4NKFHpLvsWcCcruZDWmpTonrng7S at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> If the distributor was 180 out, the car would not run at all at 38 degrees
> advance or anything around it. It would be spitting fire out the carb and
> bucking like a mule. I think you are seeing it at the exhaust stroke rather
> than the compression stroke. Rotate the crank one more run and the
> distributor should point correct. Remember, the crank turns twice for every
> cam turn.
>
> On Wed, Nov 24, 2010 at 9:06 PM, Christopher Kimball
> <chrisvkimball at msn.com>wrote:
>
>>
>> Those of you who have been on the forum for the last four years have
>> probably seen at least one or two of my emails concerning the travails of my
>> '72; Pandora, as she's been christened.
>>
>> Recently, I've had starting problems and a few other glitches. Well, with
>> help from Jeff Kimball, Doug Braun, Mike Thomas, and Stephan from Paris,
>> several issues have been cleared up lately, but the weird timing mark
>> problem persisted. The car runs great at 38 degrees before top dead center
>> instead of 16.
>>
>> The idea was floated that maybe my distributor was installed incorrectly,
>> and that I should check to be sure the rotor was pointed toward the #1
>> cylinder at 0 degrees at top dead center. I rotated the engine until the
>> damper was at 0 and then removed my distributor cap. My assumption is that
>> when one says "the rotor is pointed toward the #1 cylinder" that means the
>> brass contact would be in the position to be touching the contact inside the
>> distributor cap that goes to the #1 cylinder's spark plug wire.
>>
>> If that is the case, then the distributor is in 180 degrees backward, since
>> the brass contact on the rotor is facing exactly opposite of the #1
>> cylinder, assuming the #1 cylinder is the farthest forward cylinder on the
>> passenger side of the engine.
>>
>> If that is true and I need to rotate the distributor, is there any trick to
>> it, or do I just remove the nut I usually loosen to adjust the distributor
>> for timing, and then the little horseshoe clamp, then lift up on the
>> distributor and turn it to the right position?
>>
>> Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving.
>>
>> Sincerely,
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>>
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>
>
>
> --
> Rob DuMoulin
> 904.476.8744
> rob at dumoulins.net
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 10:06:41 -0800 (PST)
> From: Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: davel at emspace.com, Pantera List Serve <detomaso at realbig.com>,
> Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
> Message-ID: <111919.1678.qm at web30802.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> I think there may be more than?one position for the timing pointer on a SBF.? If that is correct, someone may have miss matched parts and then added a mark for the correct timing?
> ?
> I suppose you could do a rough check by trying to get the number one piston to (or near) TDC and see where the timing pointer lines up with the timing marks on the damper?? I'm not sure how easy it is to the the piston near TDC with the engine in the car.
> ?
> Ken
> ?
> --- On Wed, 11/24/10, Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com> wrote:
>
>
> From: Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: davel at emspace.com, "Pantera List Serve" <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Date: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 7:32 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Darn--and I thought I finally had something figured out!
>
> Stephan
> had tried to tell me about the engine rotation and its relation to the
> rotor position, but I didn't quite get it, I guess.
>
> I checked the timing at about 11,000 rpm (basically at idle), and I clamped the vacuum advance hose while I checked.? At that point it was at the black mark, 38 degrees.
>
> The entire
> motor is new, except the block (Cleveland) which was sonic tested and
> bored out, so although slippage was suggested, those who know the engine
> build are doubtful.
>
> I marked zero top dead center on the access hole on the ZF, just in case, so if the damper slips I'll be able to tell.
>
> I
> just can't figure out why is starts and runs so great when the timing
> mark seems so far off.? Plus, there is a black magic marker mark on the
> damper at 38 degrees BTDC, which is where it runs well, so I think this
> issue might have been this way since the new engine was built about 4 or
> 5 thousand miles ago.
>
> I'll do more research and keep you all posted.
>
> Thanks again for all your help,
>
> Chris
>
>> Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 19:20:57 -0800
>> From: davel at emspace.com
>> To: DeTomaso at realbig.com; chrisvkimball at msn.com
>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso]? Pandora question
>>
>> Yes that's it -
>> Next,? when do you see the 38 degree advance?
>> That would be a normal all-in advance over 3000 rpm or so.
>> (16 static + 22 dynamic) or at much lower rpm if you have a vacuum
>> advance system.
>>
>> dave
>>
>>
>>
>> On 11/24/2010 6:24 PM, B. Seib wrote:
>>> [DeTomaso] Pandora question
>>> Christopher Kimball chrisvkimball at msn.com
>>> Wed Nov 24 20:06:38 CST 2010
>>>
>>> Chris
>>> Just rotate the engine one complete turn and you will find all is well with
>>> the rotor.
>>> The crank turns twice for every firing and you are on the wrong stroke of
>>> number one cylinder (TDC with both valves open).
>>> Kind Regards
>>> Barry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Those of you who have been on the forum for the last four years have
>>> probably seen at least one or two of my emails concerning the travails of my
>>> '72; Pandora, as she's been christened.
>>>
>>> Recently, I've had starting problems and a few other glitches.? Well, with
>>> help from Jeff Kimball, Doug Braun, Mike Thomas, and Stephan from Paris,
>>> several issues have been cleared up lately, but the weird timing mark
>>> problem persisted.? The car runs great at 38 degrees before top dead center
>>> instead of 16.
>>>
>>> The idea was floated that maybe my distributor was installed incorrectly,
>>> and that I should check to be sure the rotor was pointed toward the #1
>>> cylinder at 0 degrees at top dead center.? I rotated the engine until the
>>> damper was at 0 and then removed my distributor cap.? My assumption is that
>>> when one says "the rotor is pointed toward the #1 cylinder" that means the
>>> brass contact would be in the position to be touching the contact inside the
>>> distributor cap that goes to the #1 cylinder's spark plug wire.
>>>
>>> If that is the case, then the distributor is in 180 degrees backward, since
>>> the brass contact on the rotor is facing exactly opposite of the #1
>>> cylinder, assuming the #1 cylinder is the farthest forward cylinder on the
>>> passenger side of the engine.
>>>
>>> If that is true and I need to rotate the distributor, is there any trick to
>>> it, or do I just remove the nut I usually loosen to adjust the distributor
>>> for timing, and then the little horseshoe clamp, then lift up on the
>>> distributor and turn it to the right position?
>>>
>>> Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving.
>>>
>>> Sincerely,
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>>>
>>> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
>>>
>>> DeTomaso mailing list
>>> DeTomaso at list.realbig.com
>>> http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>>>
>>>
> ??? ???????? ?????? ??? ?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
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> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 10:30:53 -0800 (PST)
> From: Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [DeTomaso] A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay
> To: detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <117540.59335.qm at web30805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Looks a little different, no inspection hole?
> ?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DeTomaso-Pantera-Bell-Housing-1971-NOS-E532-/370460141350
> ?
> ?
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 13:36:19 EST
> From: MikeLDrew at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay
> To: kenn_green at yahoo.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <163d36.4ccaba79.3a2006a3 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
>
>
> In a message dated 11/25/10 10 31 12, kenn_green at yahoo.com writes:
>
>
>> Looks a little different, no inspection hole?
>> ?
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DeTomaso-Pantera-Bell-Housing-1971-NOS-E532-
>> /370460141350
>> ?
>>
>
> It looks like every other Dash-1 Pantera bellhousing ever made. :>)
>
> That's the easy way to tell them apart; the Dash-1 bellhousings have two
> small holes, while the Dash-2 has a single, larger hole on one side. The
> bolt pattern is completely different too--note that there are only four holes
> to secure the gearbox to the bellhousing, while the Dash-2 has quite a few
> more than that.
>
> The Dash-2 mounts to its bellhousing with studs, plus two bolts that come
> through from the inside on the bottom; I believe the Dash-1 only uses bolts
> from the inside.
>
> Mike
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 13:58:34 -0500
> From: boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] lifter noise
> To: JDeRyke at aol.com
> Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID:
> <AANLkTikNsFHCgMcD_iUH9sPLvKn0ybkamejm7K_uCq65 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Thank's I used to know how to adjust the valves on my old 1954 Harley
> Panhead. I seem to have forgotten everything I once knew.
> I am hpeing that once I get into the motor it will come back to me. Thanks
> for taking the time to help out.
>
> Boyd
>
> On Thu, Nov 25, 2010 at 3:01 AM, <JDeRyke at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> I would put on some old clothes, then pull that rocker cover where te noise
>> seems to originate and start the engine. At idle there will still be some
>> oil mist coming out of the pushrod ends, but that's how I adjust valves.
>> You'll have about 3 minutes before things get too hot and the oil starts
>> smoking on the exhausts, so work fast. While the thing is idling, you can
>> (CAREFULLY) touch each of the rockers in turn with a finger to listen for a
>> change in the clicking sound. This will isolate the cylinder and narrow your
>> possibilities. There's nothing in there that will reach out and grab your
>> finger- just don't reach in between things....
>> Of course, if there are loose pieces laying inside the head, you don't need
>> to go thru this exercise. Good luck- J DeRyke
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 12:00:31 -0800 (PST)
> From: John Bentley <gndplne at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] lifter noise
> To: boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com>
> Cc: Pantera List <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Message-ID: <798464.37057.qm at web62304.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Boyd,
>
> A lot depends on what type of hardware you have in your engine. Stock rockers, aftermarket adjustable, etc
>
> I think the advice already given is great.? Just take off the rocker cover and see if you can located the loose rocker.? You may have to rotate the engine to get the loose one off the high spot of the cam, so it could take a couple times of rotating to locate it.? If you can't find it that way, go ahead and start it and let it idle.? You'll find it then, but it will make a little oil mess.
>
> You could have a bad or loose rocker, a bend push rod, a collapsed lifter, or a bad cam.? You'll have to do a little digging and let us know what you find.
>
> Good luck,
>
> John
>
>
> --- On Wed, 11/24/10, boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com>
> Subject: [DeTomaso] lifter noise
> To: "De Tomaso List" <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Date: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 9:19 PM
>
> My motor ( 351 Cleveland)? has developed a very noticable tapping or clatter
> coming from right side valve cover. . How can I diagnose the actual problem
> and then fix it?
> Thanks,
> Boy
> _______________________________________________
>
> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>
> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
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>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 12:12:45 -0800 (PST)
> From: John Bentley <gndplne at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: davel at emspace.com, Pantera List Serve <detomaso at realbig.com>,
> Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
> Message-ID: <318013.66604.qm at web62305.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Chris,
>
> Having a timing mark off that far on a running engine is typically caused by one of two things:
>
> Either the dampener outer ring has slipped or the cam timing is not correct ( the timing chain has slipped or was installed incorrectly).
>
> Pull the #1 plug, rotate the engine until you are on the compression stroke (air coming out the plug hole) and stop at TDC.? Check the distributor rotor position.
>
> Also check yours against another vibration dampener to see if the outer ring has slipped.? If you don't have a spare or another 351C to look at, take a picture of the front of yours and someone on the list with their engine cover off can compare.
>
> If you have a timing mark on the flywheel, you should also compare the timing mark on the vibration dampener with the mark on the flywheel to make sure they are the same.
>
> Good luck,
>
> John
>
>
> --- On Wed, 11/24/10, Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com> wrote:
>
> From: Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: davel at emspace.com, "Pantera List Serve" <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Date: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 7:32 PM
>
>
>
>
>
> Darn--and I thought I finally had something figured out!
>
> Stephan
> had tried to tell me about the engine rotation and its relation to the
> rotor position, but I didn't quite get it, I guess.
>
> I checked the timing at about 11,000 rpm (basically at idle), and I clamped the vacuum advance hose while I checked.? At that point it was at the black mark, 38 degrees.
>
> The entire
> motor is new, except the block (Cleveland) which was sonic tested and
> bored out, so although slippage was suggested, those who know the engine
> build are doubtful.
>
> I marked zero top dead center on the access hole on the ZF, just in case, so if the damper slips I'll be able to tell.
>
> I
> just can't figure out why is starts and runs so great when the timing
> mark seems so far off.? Plus, there is a black magic marker mark on the
> damper at 38 degrees BTDC, which is where it runs well, so I think this
> issue might have been this way since the new engine was built about 4 or
> 5 thousand miles ago.
>
> I'll do more research and keep you all posted.
>
> Thanks again for all your help,
>
> Chris
>
>> Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 19:20:57 -0800
>> From: davel at emspace.com
>> To: DeTomaso at realbig.com; chrisvkimball at msn.com
>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso]? Pandora question
>>
>> Yes that's it -
>> Next,? when do you see the 38 degree advance?
>> That would be a normal all-in advance over 3000 rpm or so.
>> (16 static + 22 dynamic) or at much lower rpm if you have a vacuum
>> advance system.
>>
>> dave
>>
>>
>>
>> On 11/24/2010 6:24 PM, B. Seib wrote:
>>> [DeTomaso] Pandora question
>>> Christopher Kimball chrisvkimball at msn.com
>>> Wed Nov 24 20:06:38 CST 2010
>>>
>>> Chris
>>> Just rotate the engine one complete turn and you will find all is well with
>>> the rotor.
>>> The crank turns twice for every firing and you are on the wrong stroke of
>>> number one cylinder (TDC with both valves open).
>>> Kind Regards
>>> Barry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Those of you who have been on the forum for the last four years have
>>> probably seen at least one or two of my emails concerning the travails of my
>>> '72; Pandora, as she's been christened.
>>>
>>> Recently, I've had starting problems and a few other glitches.? Well, with
>>> help from Jeff Kimball, Doug Braun, Mike Thomas, and Stephan from Paris,
>>> several issues have been cleared up lately, but the weird timing mark
>>> problem persisted.? The car runs great at 38 degrees before top dead center
>>> instead of 16.
>>>
>>> The idea was floated that maybe my distributor was installed incorrectly,
>>> and that I should check to be sure the rotor was pointed toward the #1
>>> cylinder at 0 degrees at top dead center.? I rotated the engine until the
>>> damper was at 0 and then removed my distributor cap.? My assumption is that
>>> when one says "the rotor is pointed toward the #1 cylinder" that means the
>>> brass contact would be in the position to be touching the contact inside the
>>> distributor cap that goes to the #1 cylinder's spark plug wire.
>>>
>>> If that is the case, then the distributor is in 180 degrees backward, since
>>> the brass contact on the rotor is facing exactly opposite of the #1
>>> cylinder, assuming the #1 cylinder is the farthest forward cylinder on the
>>> passenger side of the engine.
>>>
>>> If that is true and I need to rotate the distributor, is there any trick to
>>> it, or do I just remove the nut I usually loosen to adjust the distributor
>>> for timing, and then the little horseshoe clamp, then lift up on the
>>> distributor and turn it to the right position?
>>>
>>> Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving.
>>>
>>> Sincerely,
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>>>
>>> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
>>>
>>> DeTomaso mailing list
>>> DeTomaso at list.realbig.com
>>> http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>>>
>>>
> ??? ???????? ?????? ??? ?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>
> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
>
> DeTomaso mailing list
> DeTomaso at list.realbig.com
> http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 14:25:58 -0600
> From: Mike Grillot <msjaan at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Happy Thanksgiving to all
> To: "detomaso at list.realbig.com" <detomaso at list.realbig.com>
> Message-ID: <7B0CC05D-95C5-4635-AC41-A4F945C60C39 at sbcglobal.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Happy Thanksgiving!
>
> Michael Grillot
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 15:27:37 EST
> From: JDeRyke at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: kenn_green at yahoo.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <ec2c7.6fffff3f.3a2020b9 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
>
> In a message dated 11/25/10 10:07:10 AM, kenn_green at yahoo.com writes:
>
>> I think there may be more than?one position for the timing pointer on a
>> SBF.? If that is correct, someone may have miss matched parts and then added
>> a mark for the correct timing?
>> ?
>>
> Correct, Kenn- there are at least two completely diferent timing covers for
> the '70-'73 351-Cleveland plus another for the 351M/400-M's All use
> different timing pointers- that are at best only loosely indexed to the block
> anyway. It's quite possible to mix 'n match the pointers. Anyone actually wishing
> to know their true ignition timing should first find actual top dead center
> and go from there.
>
> Harmonic balencers also constantly slip and change the markings, so unless
> you've gone thru the exercise to find true TDC and made an index mark, just
> set the distribnutor to where the engine runs decently but doesn't
> death-rattle under hard acceleration, and go on to other problems. FWIW- J DeRyke
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 14:30:21 -0600
> From: "Brian Ward" <brian at trinityarmco.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] lifter noise
> To: "'boyd casey'" <boyd411 at gmail.com>, <JDeRyke at aol.com>
> Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <000301cb8cdf$959dbf10$c0d93d30$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> There was once a time, this was years ago before ohc motors came into the
> picture, that I would take an old valve cover and cut the top out and
> install it on the motor while adjusting the valves to keep the oil contained
> in the engine rather than splattering around the engine bay. The technique
> is different based on type of cam, lifters, and rockers you have. So rather
> than re-inventing the wheel I am enclosing a link for you to have full
> instruction no matter what cam, lifters, and rockers you have. The only
> thing I will add is the crank bolt is very hard to get to in the P-car, so
> modify these instructions by either using the help of a friend to bump start
> the motor so you can adjust each valve while it is closed or go to an auto
> parts store and buy a bump starter to make the job easy for one person. Here
> is the link http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0702_camshaft/index.html
> Brian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
> Behalf Of boyd casey
> Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 12:59 PM
> To: JDeRyke at aol.com
> Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] lifter noise
>
> Thank's I used to know how to adjust the valves on my old 1954 Harley
> Panhead. I seem to have forgotten everything I once knew.
> I am hpeing that once I get into the motor it will come back to me. Thanks
> for taking the time to help out.
>
> Boyd
>
> On Thu, Nov 25, 2010 at 3:01 AM, <JDeRyke at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> I would put on some old clothes, then pull that rocker cover where te
> noise
>> seems to originate and start the engine. At idle there will still be some
>> oil mist coming out of the pushrod ends, but that's how I adjust valves.
>> You'll have about 3 minutes before things get too hot and the oil starts
>> smoking on the exhausts, so work fast. While the thing is idling, you can
>> (CAREFULLY) touch each of the rockers in turn with a finger to listen for
> a
>> change in the clicking sound. This will isolate the cylinder and narrow
> your
>> possibilities. There's nothing in there that will reach out and grab your
>> finger- just don't reach in between things....
>> Of course, if there are loose pieces laying inside the head, you don't
> need
>> to go thru this exercise. Good luck- J DeRyke
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 14:31:33 -0600
> From: "Brian Ward" <brian at trinityarmco.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] lifter noise
> To: "'John Bentley'" <gndplne at yahoo.com>, "'boyd casey'"
> <boyd411 at gmail.com>
> Cc: 'Pantera List' <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Message-ID: <000401cb8cdf$c03e38d0$40baaa70$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> The previous instructions are assuming nothing is broken or bent.
> Brian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
> Behalf Of John Bentley
> Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 2:01 PM
> To: boyd casey
> Cc: Pantera List
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] lifter noise
>
> Boyd,
>
> A lot depends on what type of hardware you have in your engine. Stock
> rockers, aftermarket adjustable, etc
>
> I think the advice already given is great.? Just take off the rocker cover
> and see if you can located the loose rocker.? You may have to rotate the
> engine to get the loose one off the high spot of the cam, so it could take a
> couple times of rotating to locate it.? If you can't find it that way, go
> ahead and start it and let it idle.? You'll find it then, but it will make a
> little oil mess.
>
> You could have a bad or loose rocker, a bend push rod, a collapsed lifter,
> or a bad cam.? You'll have to do a little digging and let us know what you
> find.
>
> Good luck,
>
> John
>
>
> --- On Wed, 11/24/10, boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com>
> Subject: [DeTomaso] lifter noise
> To: "De Tomaso List" <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Date: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 9:19 PM
>
> My motor ( 351 Cleveland)? has developed a very noticable tapping or clatter
> coming from right side valve cover. . How can I diagnose the actual problem
> and then fix it?
> Thanks,
> Boy
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
>
>
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>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 15:35:24 EST
> From: JDeRyke at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay
> To: kenn_green at yahoo.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <ec54b.36d563a7.3a20228c at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Yup- thats a dash-1 bellhousing. What we call an "inspection hole" is
> really a ventillation outlet for hot air & fumes from the clutch, and dash-1s
> have two smaller ones up top- barely visible in the photo.
> Incidently, I don't recommend plugging up the vent hole/inspection hole in
> Pantera bellhousings unless the car is never driven hard..... FWIW- J DeRyke
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 16:16:39 EST
> From: LaurieFerrari at aol.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Thanks for the friendship and good times
> To: Detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <67b51.49980ca3.3a202c37 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Happy T day to all the DT peoples. I think it's colder outdoors than in
> the fridge in So Cal which is pleasantly unusual. Lots of Love, Health and
> Happiness is wished to all.
> Laurie
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 13:32:43 -0800
> From: Dave Londry <davel at emspace.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Happy Thanksgiving to all
> To: Mike Grillot <msjaan at sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "detomaso at list.realbig.com" <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Message-ID: <4CEED5FB.3030208 at emspace.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Yessir!
> Happy Thanksgiving to all the listers in the USA.
> May you survive Turkey, football and a pop or 3.
> dave
>
>> Happy Thanksgiving!
>>
>> Michael Grillot
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 13:35:27 -0800
> From: Dave Londry <davel at emspace.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay
> To: JDeRyke at aol.com
> Cc: kenn_green at yahoo.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <4CEED69F.3040701 at emspace.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Don't you worry about hard stuff falling in there Jack?
> dave
>
>
> On 11/25/2010 12:35 PM, JDeRyke at aol.com wrote:
>> Yup- thats a dash-1 bellhousing. What we call an "inspection hole" is
>> really a ventillation outlet for hot air& fumes from the clutch, and dash-1s
>> have two smaller ones up top- barely visible in the photo.
>> Incidently, I don't recommend plugging up the vent hole/inspection hole in
>> Pantera bellhousings unless the car is never driven hard..... FWIW- J DeRyke
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>>
>> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
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>> http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 14:22:42 -0800 (PST)
> From: John Bentley <gndplne at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay
> To: JDeRyke at aol.com, Dave Londry <davel at emspace.com>
> Cc: kenn_green at yahoo.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <812307.94585.qm at web62303.mail.re1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> I always thought that hole was to check/adjust timing without removing the interior, engine cover.......at least that's what I use it for!
>
> JB
>
>
> --- On Thu, 11/25/10, Dave Londry <davel at emspace.com> wrote:
>
> From: Dave Londry <davel at emspace.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay
> To: JDeRyke at aol.com
> Cc: kenn_green at yahoo.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Date: Thursday, November 25, 2010, 1:35 PM
>
> Don't you worry about hard stuff falling in there Jack?
> dave
>
>
> On 11/25/2010 12:35 PM, JDeRyke at aol.com wrote:
>> Yup- thats a dash-1 bellhousing. What we call an "inspection hole" is
>> really a ventillation outlet for hot air&? fumes from the clutch, and dash-1s
>> have two smaller ones up top- barely visible in the photo.
>> Incidently, I don't recommend plugging up the vent hole/inspection hole in
>> Pantera bellhousings unless the car is never driven hard..... FWIW- J DeRyke
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>>
>> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
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>> http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 16:46:42 -0600
> From: "Brian Ward" <brian at trinityarmco.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay
> To: "'John Bentley'" <gndplne at yahoo.com>, <JDeRyke at aol.com>, "'Dave
> Londry'" <davel at emspace.com>
> Cc: kenn_green at yahoo.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <000001cb8cf2$a18e4160$e4aac420$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Ghandi,
>
> There is nothing wrong with that. That is called innovation and improvising
> sir...
>
> Grasshopper
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
> Behalf Of John Bentley
> Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 4:23 PM
> To: JDeRyke at aol.com; Dave Londry
> Cc: kenn_green at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay
>
> I always thought that hole was to check/adjust timing without removing the
> interior, engine cover.......at least that's what I use it for!
>
> JB
>
>
> --- On Thu, 11/25/10, Dave Londry <davel at emspace.com> wrote:
>
> From: Dave Londry <davel at emspace.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay
> To: JDeRyke at aol.com
> Cc: kenn_green at yahoo.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Date: Thursday, November 25, 2010, 1:35 PM
>
> Don't you worry about hard stuff falling in there Jack?
> dave
>
>
> On 11/25/2010 12:35 PM, JDeRyke at aol.com wrote:
>> Yup- thats a dash-1 bellhousing. What we call an "inspection hole" is
>> really a ventillation outlet for hot air&? fumes from the clutch, and
> dash-1s
>> have two smaller ones up top- barely visible in the photo.
>> Incidently, I don't recommend plugging up the vent hole/inspection hole in
>> Pantera bellhousings unless the car is never driven hard..... FWIW- J
> DeRyke
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>>
>> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
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>>
>>
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>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 18
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 18:12:48 -0800
> From: John Buckman <jb841 at cox.net>
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: detomaso at list.realbig.com
> Message-ID: <28F9AC65-5A86-44D0-8134-66FC40E15A4A at cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Chris,
>
> Bring the #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. Check the timing pointer. It should point to TDC (0*). If it doesn't point to TDC,
> then most likely the damper has slipped. As Jack mentioned, make a mark on the damper aligned with the timing pointer. Put another
> mark on the face of the hub, just below the rubber that bonds the outer ring to the hub. This will give you a TDC reference for future
> timing checks (in case the balancer ring continues to slip, which it will). Also mark the flywheel with a TDC mark. Then measure the distance on
> the balancer ring from 0* to 16* (or whatever you normally use for your initial advance) and transfer it to your new TDC mark.
>
> Since your car starts and runs, the distributor is not 180* out. In that case, you don't need to have the #1 cyl on the compression stroke.
> It only needs to be on TDC (of either stroke) to check the timing marks. Two revs of the crank for one rev of the cam and dist.
>
> A word of caution here. If the balancer ring has slipped, it will continue to slip, and will eventually slide off the hub, potentially causing
> damage. I have a groove in my timing cover from when mine slipped aft.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 19
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 21:20:28 -0800 (PST)
> From: Brent Stewart <bjbstewart at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [DeTomaso] NPC - Cool cars in Movies
> To: Pantera List <DeTomaso at list.realbig.com>
> Message-ID: <725200.65017.qm at web30004.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> All,
> With the movie "Faster" coming out, it seemed like the right time for Yahoo to
> put a list of some cool cars in movies - check it out here...
>
> http://yhoo.it/e2sdmr
>
> brent
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 20
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 21:30:43 -0800
> From: Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: Jack DeRyke <jderyke at aol.com>, <kenn_green at yahoo.com>, Pantera
> List Serve <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Message-ID: <SNT139-w22064B1A76FB45CB18D209BC210 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> I'm planning on using the piston stop a friend has to do just that.
>
> So far, I like this advice the best--drive it!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
>
>> From: JDeRyke at aol.com
>> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 15:27:37 -0500
>> To: kenn_green at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
>>
>> In a message dated 11/25/10 10:07:10 AM, kenn_green at yahoo.com writes:
>>
>>> I think there may be more than one position for the timing pointer on a
>>> SBF. If that is correct, someone may have miss matched parts and then added
>>> a mark for the correct timing?
>>>
>>>
>> Correct, Kenn- there are at least two completely diferent timing covers for
>> the '70-'73 351-Cleveland plus another for the 351M/400-M's All use
>> different timing pointers- that are at best only loosely indexed to the block
>> anyway. It's quite possible to mix 'n match the pointers. Anyone actually wishing
>> to know their true ignition timing should first find actual top dead center
>> and go from there.
>>
>> Harmonic balencers also constantly slip and change the markings, so unless
>> you've gone thru the exercise to find true TDC and made an index mark, just
>> set the distribnutor to where the engine runs decently but doesn't
>> death-rattle under hard acceleration, and go on to other problems. FWIW- J DeRyke
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
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>> http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 21
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 21:49:07 -0800
> From: Asa Jay Laughton <asajay at asajay.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: detomaso at list.realbig.com
> Message-ID: <4CEF4A52.6090808 at asajay.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> I recently decided to skip the timing light altogether and use a vacuum
> gauge instead, when timing my Pantera. I replaced the dual points,
> gapped them as close as I could get without a dwell meter, then hooked
> up a vacuum gauge and started her up. I let it warm to operating
> temperature then timed it for peak vacuum, then backed off one point on
> the gauge. I also adjusted the carb this way, searching for peak
> vacuum. I moved back and forth between carb adjust and timing until I
> got it where I wanted it. Now she purrs like a kitten and roars like a
> Panther.
> :)
>
> Asa Jay
>
> Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
> & Shelley Marie
> Spokane, WA
> ******************************
> http://www.racingagainstautism.com
> http://www.teampanteraracing.com
>
>
> On 11/25/2010 21:30, Christopher Kimball wrote:
>> I'm planning on using the piston stop a friend has to do just that.
>>
>> So far, I like this advice the best--drive it!
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>> From: JDeRyke at aol.com
>>> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 15:27:37 -0500
>>> To: kenn_green at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
>>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
>>>
>>> In a message dated 11/25/10 10:07:10 AM, kenn_green at yahoo.com writes:
>>>
>>>> I think there may be more than one position for the timing pointer on a
>>>> SBF. If that is correct, someone may have miss matched parts and then added
>>>> a mark for the correct timing?
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Correct, Kenn- there are at least two completely diferent timing covers for
>>> the '70-'73 351-Cleveland plus another for the 351M/400-M's All use
>>> different timing pointers- that are at best only loosely indexed to the block
>>> anyway. It's quite possible to mix 'n match the pointers. Anyone actually wishing
>>> to know their true ignition timing should first find actual top dead center
>>> and go from there.
>>>
>>> Harmonic balencers also constantly slip and change the markings, so unless
>>> you've gone thru the exercise to find true TDC and made an index mark, just
>>> set the distribnutor to where the engine runs decently but doesn't
>>> death-rattle under hard acceleration, and go on to other problems. FWIW- J DeRyke
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>>>
>>> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
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>>> DeTomaso at list.realbig.com
>>> http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>>
>> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
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>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3278 - Release Date: 11/25/10
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 22
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 23:04:03 -0800
> From: Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: <asajay at asajay.com>, Pantera List Serve <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Message-ID: <SNT139-w53B27BA3183B7C941D5F00BC210 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> When Stephan was here he had me buy a new timing light and vacuum gauge. He took various measurements as he was adjusting the timing and carb, I believe.
>
> I'm beginning to think that the problem may just be the pointer. That would explain the felt-pen mark on the damper at 38 btdc and why it runs so well when the timing light lines up that mark.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
>
>> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 21:49:07 -0800
>> From: asajay at asajay.com
>> To: detomaso at realbig.com
>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
>>
>> I recently decided to skip the timing light altogether and use a vacuum
>> gauge instead, when timing my Pantera. I replaced the dual points,
>> gapped them as close as I could get without a dwell meter, then hooked
>> up a vacuum gauge and started her up. I let it warm to operating
>> temperature then timed it for peak vacuum, then backed off one point on
>> the gauge. I also adjusted the carb this way, searching for peak
>> vacuum. I moved back and forth between carb adjust and timing until I
>> got it where I wanted it. Now she purrs like a kitten and roars like a
>> Panther.
>> :)
>>
>> Asa Jay
>>
>> Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
>> & Shelley Marie
>> Spokane, WA
>> ******************************
>> http://www.racingagainstautism.com
>> http://www.teampanteraracing.com
>>
>>
>> On 11/25/2010 21:30, Christopher Kimball wrote:
>>> I'm planning on using the piston stop a friend has to do just that.
>>>
>>> So far, I like this advice the best--drive it!
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>> From: JDeRyke at aol.com
>>>> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 15:27:37 -0500
>>>> To: kenn_green at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
>>>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
>>>>
>>>> In a message dated 11/25/10 10:07:10 AM, kenn_green at yahoo.com writes:
>>>>
>>>>> I think there may be more than one position for the timing pointer on a
>>>>> SBF. If that is correct, someone may have miss matched parts and then added
>>>>> a mark for the correct timing?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Correct, Kenn- there are at least two completely diferent timing covers for
>>>> the '70-'73 351-Cleveland plus another for the 351M/400-M's All use
>>>> different timing pointers- that are at best only loosely indexed to the block
>>>> anyway. It's quite possible to mix 'n match the pointers. Anyone actually wishing
>>>> to know their true ignition timing should first find actual top dead center
>>>> and go from there.
>>>>
>>>> Harmonic balencers also constantly slip and change the markings, so unless
>>>> you've gone thru the exercise to find true TDC and made an index mark, just
>>>> set the distribnutor to where the engine runs decently but doesn't
>>>> death-rattle under hard acceleration, and go on to other problems. FWIW- J DeRyke
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>>>>
>>>> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
>>>>
>>>> DeTomaso mailing list
>>>> DeTomaso at list.realbig.com
>>>> http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
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>>> Archive Search Engine Now Available at http://www.realbig.com/detomaso/
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>>> DeTomaso at list.realbig.com
>>> http://list.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3278 - Release Date: 11/25/10
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>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 23
> Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 03:36:23 EST
> From: JDeRyke at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A Dash-1? Bell Housing on eBay
> To: davel at emspace.com
> Cc: kenn_green at yahoo.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <91fd4.6120af81.3a20cb87 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>
> In a message dated 11/25/10 1:35:17 PM, davel at emspace.com writes:
>
>
>> Don't you worry about hard stuff falling in there Jack?
>>
>
> No; hasn't happened in 30 years. I do worry about overheating the Tilton
> hydraulic throwout system I have in there, though.... Cheers- J Deryke
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 24
> Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 03:47:25 EST
> From: JDeRyke at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ? Pandora question
> To: jb841 at cox.net, detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <92238.2bc39635.3a20ce1d at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
>
> In a message dated 11/25/10 6:13:11 PM, jb841 at cox.net writes:
>
>> Put another mark on the face of the hub, just below the rubber that bonds
>> the outer ring to the hub.? This will give you a TDC reference for future
>> timing checks (in case the balancer ring continues to slip, which it will)
>>
> Yup. Easiest way is to line up a broad-edge cold chisel so the blade
> overlaps the joint between the inner & outer rings, and whack it with a hammer.
> Usually you don't even need to paint the resulting chisel mark- its instantly
> obvious whether the outer ring has moved and heat/weather won't erase a
> chisel mark. FWIW, Ford did not bond the inner & outer rings of most harmonic
> balancers except for Boss 351 and HO engines, according to Fords' ORR
> handbook. The 4V types were simply pressed together. No wonder the things slip.
> Cheers- J Deryke
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 25
> Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 03:55:57 EST
> From: JDeRyke at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora question
> To: chrisvkimball at msn.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Message-ID: <92411.6e57385.3a20d01d at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
>
> In a message dated 11/25/10 9:30:46 PM, chrisvkimball at msn.com writes:
>
>> I'm planning on using the piston stop a friend has to do just that.?
>>
>>
> Piston stops are always used in conjunction with a degree wheel, and
> because of the cramped quarters behind the Pantera's engine access door, wheels
> larger than about 7" don't fit on the crank nose. They run into underbody
> water hoses and occasionally the crossmember thats right there. Normally, a
> bigger wheel is better 'cause its more accurate but on a Pantera, it just won't
> fit. Even with my engine setback, I can't get a large wheel in there, so I
> hope your friend has a small wheel. Good luck- J Deryke
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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>
> End of DeTomaso Digest, Vol 76, Issue 26
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