[DeTomaso] cooling fan blowing fuse

[Mike Thomas]

Time for a Mosley relay kit? 

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of Dave Londry
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 5:47 PM
To: Brian Hill
Cc: SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com; detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] cooling fan blowing fuse

I'll chime in then Brian,

The 17A start current and 10 A run-current certainly is normal.
And I think it gives you the answer.

You're seeing 34A of start current and 20A of run current on a single fuse.
If you have at least 16 ga wire all the way through, then you could just go
to a 30A fuse.
If not, it's replace the wire or run a second wire or run a second wire and
2 fuses.

OK - let's see if the electrical guys agree.
dave


On 11/2/2010 5:02 PM, Brian Hill wrote:
> Thanks, being able to eliminate those from the equation helps.
>
> Brian
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: "PersoCaddy at aol.com"<PersoCaddy at aol.com>
> To: mazdastuff at yahoo.com
> Sent: Tue, November 2, 2010 6:12:08 PM
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] cooling fan blowing fuse
>
> Hi yes its normal Pat Orlando EE.
>
> In a message dated 11/2/2010 4:56:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> mazdastuff at yahoo.com writes:
> Thanks    for verifying that.  I have learned to remove the passenger side
> seat.
>
>> Makes it easier to get up there.
>>
>> I have acquired a    clamp on ammeter from sears.  when I apply power to
either
>> motor the    amp readings start at 17 and go down to 10.  So now I
ask...is that
>>
>> normal?
>> Keeping in mind that I have aftermarket high volume fans.
>>
>> Brian
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From:    "MikeLDrew at aol.com"<MikeLDrew at aol.com>
>> To: mazdastuff at yahoo.com;    SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com; detomaso at realbig.com
>> Sent: Mon, November 1, 2010    9:17:47 PM
>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] cooling fan blowing fuse
>>
>>
>> In a    message dated 11/1/10 19 02 19, mazdastuff at yahoo.com    writes:
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks Doug, Orville, and J.  Looks like I have    some work ahead of me.
Oh
>> well,
>>> weather is getting cooler so it    will be more fun to work on.  J
mentioned
>>> some
>>> relays that might    also be damaged due to the way they are mounted on
the
>>> car.
>>>
>>> I am    aware of the cooling fan relays under the dash on the passenger
>>> side.
>>>
>> Are
>>> there others mounted in the    front?
>>>
>> The later cars (1972 and later) mounted the fan relays    immediately
behind the
>>
>> radiator on the passenger side, attached to the    front of the front
trunk
>> compartment sheetmetal.   The 1971 cars    like yours mounted these same
relays
>> on
>>
>> the relay panel under the dash,    behind the glovebox.
>>
>> There is no philosophical distinction; the relays    function exactly the
same
>> in
>>
>> either case.   There's no risk of    damage by having them in the cabin;
they
>> are
>>
>> just less convenient to work    on.
>>
>> The later cars powered the fans by fuses #11 and #12; #11 was 15    amp
and #12
>> was
>>
>> 25 amp (it also had some other jobs to handle at the same    time).   The
early
>> wiring diagram shows both fans powered by a    single fuse (it appears to
be
>> fuse
>>
>> #14, which would be one of the window    fuses?); I don't see a fuse
power
>> rating
>>
>> listed however.
>>
>> Methinks    your problems may be associated either with more-powerful
fans, or
>> fans
>>
>> that are degraded and thus have a higher-than-normal amperage draw,
combined
>> with the flawed philosophy of powering both fans on the single    fuse?
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
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