[DeTomaso] Adjustable Rear upper a-arms

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

In a message dated 5/31/10 9:32:39 AM, tborcich at msn.com writes:

> My fabricator is leaning to doing all new arms first because he doesn't 
> like modifying the original part (their original after all). What's an 
> original a-arm worth these days? Anyone been there done that?
> 
Sure- all the vendors do. You're trusting your life and car to the 
integrity of the welds, and you'd have to correctly add something to stock a-arms 
for a threaded receptical to maintain alignment, then thread it, so I suggest 
TIG-welded tubular chrome-moly upper arms with high-nickel welding rod. 
Chrome-moly cannot be properly welded otherwise. Some arm kits do not include a 
conversion stud and that means drilling out the taper in the upper end of 
the carriers, preventing anyone from ever going back to stock on this car. 
Using p/n 535-AK35 conversion stud for 1/2" rod ends ($4.95/pr) from 
Speedway Motors in NE with a Ford taper on one end to fit the carrier and a 
straight thread on the other for washers and a nut means no carrier drilling. You 
can also use a bigger 5/8" rod end with steel bushings to fit the above 
studs, or use p/n 916-36055-'Pinto' conversion stud ($10 ea) but this bigger 
stud's taper length may not fit the upright's tapered hole without work. I also 
suggest using rod-end seals to fit whatever size rod ends you choose, also 
from Speedway, to keep road debris out of the rod-end bearings. The rod-end 
dust seals are also good for the ends included on Koni gas shocks. All this 
is dirt-track racing stuff. Good luck- J DeRyke