[DeTomaso] Galled stainless fasteners

[Tomas Gunnarsson]

I can check what my colleagues use. See
http://www.vgscienta.com/productlist.aspx?MID=15 for a pic of our stuff. Can
you count the screws? ;-)

Tomas

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
[mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]On Behalf Of Dave Londry
Sent: den 26 maj 2010 20:02
To: Tomas Gunnarsson
Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Galled stainless fasteners


I agree - I was hoping heat would help by cracking the chip bonds - I
don't think oils do anything.
I've had good luck with the copper anti-seize compounds Tomas.
These ones have come out dead clean, so not even MS2 on them when assembled.
dave

Tomas Gunnarsson wrote:
> I think galled SS threads are different from rusted iron/steel threads.
> The heat from the welding won't be of as much use as the internal and
> external threads have turned "solid" in a different way from when rust
> builds up in a thread. At work we build our products out of SS to a
> large extent. The screws are plated with e.g. silver to counteract
> seizing. Another option is to install bronze helicoil inserts. The easy
> way is of course to stay away from threaded components made from SS
> completely... :-)
>
> Tomas
>
> <-----Ursprungligt Meddelande----->
> From: Thomas Tornblom [Thomas.Tornblom at hax.se]
> Sent: 26/5/2010 8:20:27 AM
> To: detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Galled stainless fasteners
>
> Perhaps you can try the trick Tomas Gunnarsson and I used for getting
> the stuck drain plugs out of my block?
>
> We placed a suitably sized hex nut over the plug and welded it to the
> plug with a MIG-welder through the threaded hole. That serves two
> purposes, get something to wrench on, and heat the plug/bolt so that it
> will be easier to get it loose.
>
> Thomas
>
>
> 2010-05-26 08:08, Dave Londry skrev:
>
>> I'm to cowardly to use screw extractors Michael.
>> If you break one of them off - it's all over.
>>
>> I really like the slot idea if you have something broken off flush.
>> I still have a head to work with (for the moment), but I may get the
>> flush case at the next break.
>> dave
>>
>>
>>
>> michael at michaelshortt.com wrote:
>>
>>> Try cutting a slot with a dremel tool and twisting it out like a
>>>
> screw
>
>>> head, worked for me once michael shortt did you try drilling it with
>>> an actual extractor bit tool
>>>
>>>
>>>> On May 25, 2010 11:00 PM, "Dave Londry"<davel at emspace.com
>>>> <mailto:davel at emspace.com>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Has anybody got particular experience with galled stainless?
>>>>
>>>> I got #6143 with a fancy Gilmer drive with black stainless pulleys,
>>>>
> an
>
>>>> aluminum waterpump
>>>> and black-stainless bracketing for the alternator and A/C.
>>>> I just went to whip the front cover off to get my wiped camshaft out
>>>>
> and
>
>>>> found the morons used
>>>> stainless fasteners (304 I imagine) and no anti-seize.
>>>> I have all but 2 of the necessary ones our now, but one of the
>>>>
> remaining
>
>>>> ones was the first one I touched.
>>>> Of course it's a hex-drive and I stripped it. I've had a torch on
>>>>
> them
>
>>>> and been dosing them with liquid wrench,
>>>> but no luck. I don't see that penetrants are much use for galling
>>>> anyway.
>>>> The round head is 9/16" and I can't find a stud extractor that big
>>>>
> so
>
>>>> all I can think of is a 9/16 bolt extractor.
>>>> (fits over the head and has teeth) and an impact wrench..
>>>> I imagine I'll eventually tear the head off and then I can use my
>>>>
> stud
>
>>>> extractor on the stub until I twist it off, etc. etc.
>>>>
>>>> Any ideas welcome.
>>>> thanks in advance
>>>> dave
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