[DeTomaso] machine ball joint to modify alingment

Thu May 20 11:31:25 EDT 2010

That wholly depends on whether the bushings are oem style rubber encased in steel or aftermarket poly busings. The former requires heat, a hacksaw and a BFH mixed with copious amounts of foul language to remove. Also be prepared for the lingering smell and taste of burning rubber for days to follow.

The poly bushings you can literally pull out with you hands.

The bigger question is how were they installed wrong that it is affecting your alignment (toe, camber, caster)?

Good luck,

Julian

> From: steveblum2 at msn.com
> To: jderyke at aol.com; boyd411 at gmail.com; detomaso at realbig.com
> Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 11:22:18 -0400
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] machine ball joint to modify alingment
> 
> 
> I recently found what I suspect is a problem with the front end. Aparently when I had the suspension bushings changed the new ones were installed wrong causing an alignment problem. My question is, how much of a project is it to disassemble the front end, correct the busing and reassemble the front end? Is this a job only for an experienced mechanic or someone with mechanical skills but limited experience can handle? What special tools are required?
> 
> Steven Blum
> P.O. Box 81 
> Shoreham, N.Y. 11786 
> H (631) 744-6118 
> C (631) 235-1905
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > From: JDeRyke at aol.com
> > Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 14:41:26 -0400
> > To: boyd411 at gmail.com; detomaso at realbig.com
> > Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] machine ball joint to modify alingment
> > 
> > 
> > In late '07, I did a series of newsletter articles on altering the 
> > Pantera's front & rear suspension geometry. Coleman Racing sells Chrysler-type 
> > take-apart ball joint bodys with varying length studs attached. Varying the 
> > length of the stud positions the a-arm they're mounted to at different heights 
> > above the upright, thus changing the a-arm angle and the car's suspension 
> > geometry. Chrysler's stud-taper is identical to Ford's taper so our front & 
> > rear uprights need not be altered at all. 
> > 
> > There was also the newsletter article in April '08 on adapting these 
> > aftermarket Chrysler-type ball joints to the Pantera. These ball joints are widely 
> > used in dirt racing cars and most bolt-on hot-rod suspensions, & can be 
> > added with little machining to 6 of a Pantera's 8 a-arms: the Pantera's lower 
> > rears don't use a ball joint. They have threaded bodies and screw into a-arm 
> > recepticles. This means they can be changed at a track without a press very 
> > quickly. Rather than tap the Pantera a-arms (rear) or the modified carriers 
> > (fronts), I shaved the threads off the Chrysler-type bodies and pressed them 
> > into modified Pantera balljoint carriers, locking them with one stock mount 
> > bolt for added security. The huge tap would have been expensive, and 
> > welding premade threaded recepticles to the a-arms would be a bit permenent.
> > 
> > Later, I milled out aluminum front ball-joint carriers to lighten things 
> > up. Our Pantera handles quite well with these ball joints- in place since 
> > mid-'08- with one 1000 mile road trip to Las Vegas on them as well as laps at 
> > Pahrump racetrack..... They can be reverted back to stock easily, & were cheap 
> > to boot. Cheers- J DeRyke
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