[DeTomaso] oil leak questions
Christopher Kimball
chrisvkimball at msn.com
Mon May 3 12:57:12 EDT 2010
Thanks.
Cross your fingers...
Chris
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 09:47:05 -0700
From: teampantera at yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] oil leak questions
To: JDeRyke at aol.com; chrisvkimball at msn.com
CC: detomaso at realbig.com
Guys,
Let me add something to what Jack as well as what JT mentioned earlier and is that that there is allot more people who will tell you they know how to build a Cleveland or tune fuel injection or Webers (as you give them your money).....but finding the ones who can do it right the first time is a different story.
Good Luck Chris.
Mad Dawg Antenucci
Team Pantera Racing
"If you're not on the edge you're taking up room"
www.teampanteraracing.com
From: "JDeRyke at aol.com" <JDeRyke at aol.com>
To: chrisvkimball at msn.com
Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
Sent: Sun, May 2, 2010 12:54:10 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] oil leak questions
Chris, if the engine is pretty new, the pan gaskets shouldn't have bonded
to the engine yet. FWIW, I always oil one side of the pan gaskets and
contact-cement the other (your choice of surfaces). After 2-3 years, I can still
drop the pan without tearing a gasket and no leaks. And as JT said,
mis-idexing the neoprene seal ends fixes most rear main seal leaks.
Complications arise if -A- the rear main is still running a rope seal- used
by OEMs up to the mid-'70s and sold by some auto parts stores even today,
and -B- if the seal surface on the crank is damaged or machined wrong. This
last is seen on some cheaper stroker cranks but not OEM. FWIW, the upcoming
June POCA newsletter issue has a two-part main oil seal article series- front
& rear, with photos of what's involved. Cheers- J DeRyke
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