[DeTomaso] Replacing stock cooling fans

GW gow2 at rc-tech.net
Tue Mar 16 08:16:31 EDT 2010


I have the PIM radiator. They have a simple tab welded on the side for 
mount. The tab is set up perfect to bend/flex and break off. I welded 
side supports to the tab.

Henrik Svensson wrote:
> I asked Pantera Performance and they use the one from Ron Davis. But with fans it's about $350 more than the Fluidyne with Flex-a-lite fans.
>
> Is it worth it?
>
> As Asa Jay said, it might be easier to fit?
>
> /Henrik
>
>
>
> -----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
> Från: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] För Tomas Gunnarsson
> Skickat: den 15 mars 2010 22:54
> Till: detomaso at realbig.com
> Ämne: Re: [DeTomaso] Replacing stock cooling fans
>
> So, for the uninformed, what are the differences between the two?
>
> I thought the Pantera specific Fluidyne duplicated the original brass unit
> for mounting and water connections.
>
> Tomas
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
> [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]On Behalf Of Asa Jay Laughton
> Sent: den 15 mars 2010 22:40
> To: detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Replacing stock cooling fans
>
>
> If I had the money to do it all over again... I'd go with Quella's.
> It's all set up, ready to run, fans included and 90 degree elbows on
> the radiator so you don't have to monkey with any corners.
>
> Asa Jay
>
> Quoting Henrik Svensson <hsv at traen.se>:
>
>   
>> Hi all
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a new stroker with aluminium pump, rollers and a 10QT oil pan.
>>
>>
>>
>> I'll go for a Fluidyne radiator with dual pullers and will see if it
>>  does the trick.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any reason to go with Quella's instead?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for all the tips!
>>
>>
>>
>> /Henrik
>>
>>
>>
>> Från: JDeRyke at aol.com [mailto:JDeRyke at aol.com]
>> Skickat: den 15 mars 2010 20:23
>> Till: Henrik Svensson; detomaso at realbig.com
>> Ämne: Re: [DeTomaso] Replacing stock cooling fans
>>
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 3/15/10 2:30:21 AM, hsv at traen.se writes:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> What's the "standard" solution out there? Do you still have the
>> stock fans? If replacing them, what do I need to get instead to cope
>>  with the cooling? I have a stock radiator in good condition.
>>
>>
>> IMHO, the 'standard; solution is to replace the stock radiator with
>> a Fluidyne aluminum one!
>> The real problem is, ANY stock radiator just will not flow enough
>> water through it to keep the engine cool in traffic. Its internal
>> tubes are too small. And the stock fans cannot push enough air to
>> keep the water temp below boiling around town.
>> The following mods help but do not solve the problem:
>> -dual shrouded sucker fans at least 3X stronger than stock, with the
>>  stock fans and mounts removed
>> -a shield disc on the water pump impeller
>> -aluminum water pump
>> -slightly smaller diameter water pump pulley to spin the pump faster
>> -16 lb radiator cap
>> -blocking off the warm-up passage in the block with a freeze plug
>> -Wiring one fan to be 'on' all the time with a manual switch for the
>>  other one and discarding the leaky stock fan switches
>> -180 degree thermostat
>> -adding a Laminova oil cooler & oil thermostat
>> -roller rocker arms for less frictional heating of the oil and a
>> 10-quart oil pan
>> -running 12 degrees of initial ignition advance with 35 degrees TOTAL
>>     
> advance
>   
>> I did all these with little or no improvement. But changing to a
>> large-tube aluminum Fuidyne rad immediately dropped the water temp
>> 20 degrees F!
>> The only other thing that consistently lowers water temps is to
>> completely discard the thermometer. This will radically lower the
>> water temp but is not healthy for your engine in the long term. Good
>>  luck- J DeRyke, living in the Nevada desert
>>
>>
>>
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