[DeTomaso] removing second set of stock rear brake calipers?

[John Taphorn]

Jim

Some thoughts

1) The drag is probably because of a sticking caliper piston.  I wouldn't 
think that a properly adjusted rear caliper would add significant drag.
2) The stock proportioning valve reduced braking force to the front 
calipers.
3) Not running the valve makes an excellent case for the additional rear 
caliper.
4) I'd leave them on if you are not concerned about unsprung weight - If you 
fix the sticking piston(s), I would think that your brake balance would be 
better and your stopping force improved.

JT
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pantdino at aol.com>
To: <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 12:10 PM
Subject: [DeTomaso] removing second set of stock rear brake calipers?


>
>
> When I got my car 20 yrs ago the PO had installed a second stock caliper 
> on each rear wheel. I suspect as a result the car has always had more 
> brake pad drag, evidenced by resistance to rotating the wheel by hand or 
> pushing the car. (The rotors are not warped-- the resistance is steady.)
> I believe the cars came with a brake proportioning valve, which was 
> removed when the aftermarket (GM I think) master cylinder was installed. 
> (Again, by the PO). My understanding is that said proportioning valves are 
> to prevent rear wheel lockup.
> I would like to remove the redundant rear calipers to eliminate the extra 
> drag, and my question is whether I have to reinstall a proportioning valve 
> if I do that.
> I am running 285/40-17 and front 215/45-17 front tires, Goodyear Eagle F1. 
> Looking at that puny rear pad I find it hard to believe that it will lock 
> up that wide tire before the larger front pads will lock up the much 
> narrower front tire.
> So I'm thinking removing the extra rear caliper will not require a 
> proportioning valve.
>
> I'll disassemble the calipers also to check their condition after 20 yrs 
> of silicone fluid use.
>
> Jim Oddie
>
>
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