[DeTomaso] Clutch help

boyd casey boyd411 at gmail.com
Fri Jun 25 19:53:16 EDT 2010


Again I am not an expert and although I did solve my problem I never was
able to find out what the problem was. Anyway I would be more inclined to
think you haveing air leaking in then having fluid leaking out. This could
be furthur evideb\ced by the fact that air in you clutch line will cause the
clutch "spongy" and repeated  pumping the clutch pedal will compress the air
in the system until the clutch works, then after sitting for a while the air
will expand again and the clutch will stop disengaging again.  Have you
gotten the power bleeder yet? If not you need to do that. The power bleeder
takes around two quarts of fluid and pushes it through at around 45PSI. All
I know is after I replaced my fittings and  used the power bleeder my
problem was solved. If you look at the number hours you have spent and the
frustration as well as the fact that you cant drive your car the Power
bleeder is a small investment to make to get the problem solved.
Boyd

On Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 7:24 PM, <tmshinro at aol.com> wrote:

>
>  First I want to thank everyone that sent me suggestions.   I'm still
> trying to figure it out but I have a couple more questions.
>
> I started the car the next morning to move the car forward in my garage
> after I experienced clutch drag the night before when I pulled the car in
> the garage .  Everything worked fine; I was able to shift into all gears
> while stationary with the engine running.  When I depressed the clutch pedal
> I could "feel" the clutch disengage well before the bottom of the stroke.
>  The clutch engaged about half way up when I pulled the car forward and
> totally disengaged when I pushed the clutch in when I stopped.  I didn't
> take in out because I know I would see clutch drag after 10 to 15 minutes of
> driving based on numerous prior test runs.
>
> Here's my question - I measure 0.020 inches of clearance between the clutch
> disk and pressure plate.  I don't see any separation between the clutch disk
> and the flywheel, but when I move the car by hand with the clutch pedal
> depressed I can see the clutch disk move between the flywheel and pressure
> plate.  Should I be seeing measurable separation at the flywheel as well as
> the pressure plate?   From what I have been told I'm don't have as much
> separation as I should (0.020 vs 0.030), so I'm wondering if things are
> expanding when hot and consuming what little clearance I have.
>  Unfortunately, I can't get anymore clearance unless I use up all my free
> play (which I've cut down to about 0.060 inches).   Is there enough
> heat/expansion between the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate to make a
> difference?
>
> Also I should mention that the clutch master I installed was one I bought
> 10 years ago from Collectors Choice.  The MC sat in my tool chest with the
> outlet plugged the whole time time.  I live in Iowa so there were plenty of
> humid days that the MC would have seen in my garage.  I disassembled it
> prior to assembly and the bore and seals looked good and I could tell that
> the seals were tighter that my old one when I manually pushed the push rod
> into the bore. I took the MC out a second time to measure the pushrod and
> did not see any fluid leaks in the rubber boot.  However, when I bled the
> system, the fluid that came out of the bleeder looked clear through the
> plastic tube I used but was dark once it was collected in a plastic bottle.
>  Is it possible that the seals could have deteriorated causing blow by?
>  Would it make sense that blow by would get worse after cycling the clutch
> for 10 to 15 minutes?  The fluid in the reservoir is clear.
>
> Unfortunately I didn't think about measuring the bore of the new MC and
> comparing it to the old.  I'm assuming they are the same, which if they are,
> baffles me because I never had clutch problems before this.
>
> The battle goes on.
>
> Tom
> #5186
>
>
>
>
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