[DeTomaso] Wont run

cengles at cox.net cengles at cox.net
Mon Jul 12 18:45:18 EDT 2010


Dear Bud,

Wow. Conventional wisdom would say that you're running on borrowed tim(ing chain), but one can't argue with 144,000 miles.

Warmest regards, Chuck Engles


---- B Hower <b.hower3400 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Though I have a Torino, 70 351C 4V ( I bought new ) with original gears and chain at 144,000 mi.
> FWIW
> Bud 3400
>
> --- On Mon, 7/12/10, John Buckman <jb841 at cox.net> wrote:
>
>
> From: John Buckman <jb841 at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Wont run
> To: spkorb at gmail.com
> Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
> Date: Monday, July 12, 2010, 3:29 AM
>
>
> #6 is 180* from #1.  You may not have the engine rotated to TDC on the
> compression stroke.  If you rotate the engine one more revolution (360*),
> then the distributor rotor will point to #1 and the timing pointer will again
> be aligned with the balancer marks.  Two revolutions of the crank for one
> revolution of the cam/distributor.
>
> You should verify that the engine is on the compression stroke for #1 cyl
> before removing the distributor.
>
> The distributor pin could have sheared and just happened to "settle" at
> 180* out of the correct location.
>
> You could have jumped a tooth on the timing chain.  If you still have the
> original timing chain and sprockets, then this may be the problem.  Anything
> over 35k on the original sprockets is on borrowed time. 
>
> John
>
>
>
> On Jul 11, 2010, at 7:48 PM, Sean Korb wrote:
>
> > That does sound right.  My roll pin has sheared in various Fords, and
> > it's always been with a loud *pop*.
> >
> > Sometimes you can even spin the distributor shaft by hand, but most of
> > the time there is sufficient bind to keep that from happening.  Your
> > oil pump runs off the same gear so it's best that it won't run at the
> > moment.  Remove the cap and rotor and wires and whatever else looks
> > like it will be in the way.  Put a soft cloth over the distributor,
> > mark the distributor position, remove the hod down nut and carefully
> > guide the distributor up.  Try to keep from hitting the rear window.
> >
> > Now remove the gear, noting it's orientation on the shaft, clean out
> > the old roll pin with a small rod chisel or screwdriver and put the
> > gear back on.  Try to line up the holes so you *know* a straight roll
> > pin will fit.  Light showing through is not sufficient.  It only fits
> > one way, and not the other way.  Then drive your new roll pin
> > (available on the "Help" cards at parts stores as an assortment) into
> > the hole with light taps with a hammer.  If there is room, find
> > another roll pin and insert it into the first roll pin; many on this
> > list have used that method with some success and may prevent the next
> > shearing of the pin.  Put the distributor back in, adjust timing in
> > the usual way.
> >
> > Now this brings up a question, is there a reason that the pin sheared?
> > Are there old valve oil seals floating in your crank case or other
> > debris?  Is your oil too thick?  Do you have a high volume oil pump?
> > Sometimes the pins shear out of spite, but be sure you know the reason
> > and are comfortable with it before driving again.
> >
> > Best of luck!
> > sean
> >
> > On Sun, Jul 11, 2010 at 10:30 PM, leonejay <leonejay at aol.com> wrote:
> >> My engine all of a sudden stopped. It went pop through the carburetor . Tried to start it and it back fires like it is on the wrong cylinder .I set  top dead center then looked into the distributor and the pointer is not on 1 it is on 6. Does the mean a pin broke on the shaft in the distributor What is the best procedure  Thanks Jay .
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> >
> > --
> > Sean Korb spkorb at spkorb.org http://www.spkorb.org
> > '65,'68 Mustangs,'68 Cougar,'78 R100/7,'60 Metro,'59 A35,'71 Pantera #1382
> > "The more you drive, the less intelligent you get" --Miller
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