[DeTomaso] Brake Lines
JDeRyke at aol.com
JDeRyke at aol.com
Sun Feb 21 14:29:12 EST 2010
> Since I plan to replace all the lines, I have a few questions
> - what kind of lines should I use?
> - what diameter lines should I use?
> - what kind of fittings should I use? ...and therefore what flare
> type/angle?
>
Roydon, I have no idea of your capabilities, so bear with me here. Stock
Pantera brake lines are metric OD, with Euro-style bubble-flairs on ends.
Those diameter lines will not easily fit a U.S. inverted-flairing tool, and if
you do manage to shim metric lines to fit a U.S tool, the flairs it produces
will not fit into Euro fittings. You'll need adapters in most areas. In a
few areas on the Pantera, SAE (U.S) thread sizes will screw leak-free directly
into the metric OEM frame fittings.
Brakes are (with the steering) one of the most vital control systems in any
car, and neither is a place to experiment or cut corners. Unless you've
done this kind of adaption before and are comfortable with it, I suggest
buying pre-made Euro lines from a Pantera vendor, or resigning yourself to
changing almost everything to stainless AN aircraft fittings and U.S style/size
lines. A third option is to call your favorite vendor and schedule them to
change all the suspect lines at their shop. The vendors will also stock the
needed adapters if you decide to DIY. The work is fussy but not particularly
expensive, and as mentioned, the penalty for doing it wrong can be high- &
painful.
Do not use single-U.S.-flairs on std brake lines; brake tubing is
'Bundyweld'- sheet-steel wound around a mandrel and edge-brazed to make a tube, and a
single flair will crack at the braze joint. Double flairs are mandatory.
Also, do not use copper tubing; it work-hardens and cracks. Stainless line can
be safely single-flaired without cracking, but its really stiff to bend and
also work-hardens during flairing & bending, so mistakes are usually
uncorrectable.
Line diameters should duplicate as close as possible the OEM line sizes if
you decide to change over to AN fittings & lines, on the assumption that
Ford & DeTomaso's chassis engineers knew what size the car needed in the
various areas.
That said, stock brake lines are usually immortal in terms of wearing out-
the only problems normally stem from crash damage, from someone mucking
around in there for any number of reasons, or from really bad corrosion.
Surprisingly, the worst line corrosion I've seen was not under the car- it was on
the joining line that runs between the two front brakes, behind the battery.
That line's only "protection" from battery acid was a piece of shrink-tubing
(often missing or torn). I suggest running that line (or its replacement)
under the trunk floor rather than its stock routing. Good luck- J DeRyke
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