[DeTomaso] Engine re-assembly questions for #6143.

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

In a message dated 1/31/10 10:38:29 PM, davel at emspace.com writes:

> So the questions are:
> - Is an off-the shelf exhaust valve going to match the cut of the valve
> seat?
> - Could I check it by bluing the seat?
> - What's the little seal-spring for?
> - Anything special to do in re-assembly beyond painting everything with
> heavyweight oil?
> - Anything special to do in dressing the gaskets?
> - Is it a good idea to get a how-to book, maybe one of Tom Monroe's, in
> addition to the Ford manual?
> 
An off-the shelf valve head will generally match the seat angle, however 
with wear, an exact match is not possible. Thats why we do valve jobs to both 
the seats and valves.

Blueing the seat will show any distortion. On some engines especially those 
run with valve float, te seat gets pounded pretty good. And if you're only 
going to replace one valve, get some lapping compound and a wooden stick 
with a suction cup on one end and you'll be able to lap in that valve. Just 
clean all the lapping (grinding) compound thoroughly before running the engine. 
Or the residue will wash into the oil pan and tale away a bearing or two!

The spring-seal is your valve guide seal and it keeps excess oiol frro   
running down the valve stem and either burning up in the combustion chamber 
(intake) or going out the exhaust to make smoke. Its good that it has a spring 
on it- that means its a real seal and not the umbrella-seal type thats not 
very effective.

If you're replacing a lifter on a used cam, use Isky Rev-Lube (looks like 
thick black anti-sieze) and pray a lot. A new lifter on a used cam very 
rapidly becomes a USED lifter, sometimes taking that cam lobe out as it tries to 
wear compatibly to the already-worn cam lobe.

Tom Monrore's 'Overhauling 351-C engines' is excellent at giving an 
over-view of the many operations in overhauling a Cleveland, plus torque values 
etc. 

You will need a Top End Overhaul gasket set, which only supplies the 
gaskets needed for the heads, rocker covers and the other stuff you disturbed up 
top. I suggest using composite -not steel shim- intake gaskets, as many 
people have trouble getting the gigantic intake ports to seal off head-to-intake 
manifold, using thin steel shim gaskets. NOT sealing this area perfectly 
will allow the engine to suck oil into the combustion chamber, and the thicker, 
softer composite gaskets are much more forgiving. Fel- Pro gasket sets use 
composites.
Good luck- J DeRyke