[DeTomaso] Rookies & Pantera electrics

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

The stock fuse box takes European fuses made of an exposed aluminum strip 
wrapped around a ceramic core- used in all Euro cars from the '50s to about 
the '90s. Problem is, in damp climates the aluminum fuse strips and the 
copper contacts- in the presence of high humidity, make whats called a 'galvanic 
couple' and the aluminum forms a thick oxide layer. Aluminum oxide is a 
semiconductor and current can't get through the layer in enough quantity to run 
your accessories.

The simple fix used to be to substitute 'GBC'-type fuses for the 
exposed-strip Euro fuses. GBCs look like glass fuses from the '60s-'70s except that 
the ends are pointed to fit Euro fuse holders. Being covered with plating, 
they don't oxidize. Mine have been trouble free since 1985. But with the advent 
of 'ATM' u-shaped fuses, they are now hard to find. 

The complicated fix is to change the fuse box to one that uses modern 
ATM-type fuses so extras are more available (until the next industry change....). 
By switching one wire at a time, installation of the conversion box is 
simple if tedious. Some conversions are made from a stock box thats been gutted 
with ATM contacts installed, and some are from an entirely different car and 
needs new screw holes drilled under the dash. Installation is easy in the 
first case and more complex in the second- if its a mid-'72-up, the glove box 
must be removed and it helps if you are small and flexible. '71-early '72s 
have the fuse box mounted above the passenger's legs and it helps if you 
remove the passenger seat.
 
Throughout the car are many multipin wire connectors and those (from Lucas 
of England) also have unplated pin contacts. So if a device stops working, 
the very first thing one does is spray the closest multiconnector with Radio 
Shack contact cleaner. It also works on OEM fuses. This will save time, 
money and frustration if you do this every year or two. Or move to a dry climate 
like West Texas or Arizona.
Finally, there are at least 4 different FACTORY wiring schematics available 
1971-1974. None are likely 100% correct for your car. What's normally done 
is to buy one with a published date close to the build-date of your Pantera 
and annotate it for your car as you find differences. And use a GOOD VOM; 
cheapies cause more trouble than they solve in some areas. Welcome to the 
wonderful world of Euro-built, limited-production sports cars! Good luck- J 
DeRyke