[DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes

Thu Aug 19 14:31:26 EDT 2010

Years past when in the UK, where climate and salted roads mean cars last about 5 minutes we always used Waxoyl in the frame rails and internal panels. It is a oil coating that you spray into the frame rails and the light paraffin component evaporates to leave a wax coating. It is available in the USA, but I guess these new products are a superior system, although coverage inside frame rails is always a lingering question.

Julian

> Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 01:48:18 -0700
> From: garth_rodericks at yahoo.com
> To: detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
> 
> Just a follow-up to last month's thread on chassis drain holes and rust proofing 
> the frame rails - what I did and how I did it.
> http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6450045562/m/215107066?r=606101266#606101266
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- Original Message ---
> (http://realbig.com/pipermail/detomaso/2010-July/124552.html)
> 
> [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
> Garth Rodericks garth_rodericks at yahoo.com
> Mon Jul 19 13:25:53 CDT 2010
> 
> FWIW, I've already begun some rust-proofing efforts on my car while the engine 
> is out. I ran brushes (and used a screw driver) through the horse shoe section 
> of the chassis to loosen scale and debris and blew compressed air in there to 
> remove most of the resident crud, gravel, etc that has gathered over the last 28 
> 
> years. Next, I'll use my JC Whitney undercoating gun (kit with extension 
> wands/hoses to reach into frame rails) to spray Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on 
> these interior surfaces. 
> 
> 
> Last night I cleaned the area ahead of the gas tank between the outer fender and 
> 
> the inner body, just behind the door jamb (B-pillar?). I used long screwdrivers 
> to scrap/dig out years of dust build up and a few pieces of gravel, vacuumed it 
> out with a shop vac, and blew out any remaining debris with compressed air. I 
> did this on both sides of the car and found these areas were solid (my car does 
> not get driven in the rain). After cleaning, I coated the area with Rust 
> Encapsulator for added protection against the elements and to help prevent any 
> future rust. I may also spray some Waxoil or some such solution in there as well 
> 
> for added protection.
> 
> Anyway, the frame rails will receive the same treatment next!
> 
> I might even use Rust Converter in the frame rails before coating with Rust 
> Encapsulator.
> 
> http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html
> http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html
> 
> Cheers!
> Garth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com>
> To: Garth Rodericks <garth_rodericks at yahoo.com>
> Cc: JDeRyke at aol.com; DeTomaso Mail List <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 8:49:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
> 
> I had read somewhere that it was also a "good Idea" to take a flexible probe and 
> 
> spray either a rust inhibator , tractor oil , or one of those chemical like 
> Eastwood sells that converts Ferric Oxide into a hard shell that will prevent 
> further oxidation (rust) from occurring. Ant thoughts or comments on this 
> strategy?
> Boyd
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 2:52 AM, Garth Rodericks <garth_rodericks at yahoo.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Jack!
> >
> >Bill Taylor sent me a copy of your excellent article with the illustration of
> >where the drain holes should be drilled. It's exactly what I need, and the
> >illustration adds nicely compliments your description below. I already have
> >drain holes in the horseshoe, but wanted to verify that I have the appropriate
> >(number & size) drain holes in the lower frame rails too.
> >
> >Thanks!
> >Garth
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >________________________________
> >From: "JDeRyke at aol.com" <JDeRyke at aol.com>
> >To: garth_rodericks at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
> >Sent: Sun, July 18, 2010 10:37:44 PM
> >
> >Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
> >
> >
> >There's no tightly defined place to drill the drain holes. Starting from the
> >bellhousing area, drill three (or more) 1/2" dia holes, more-or-less equally
> >spaced along the lower rear frame rails. Also drill a 3/8" hole in the lowest
> >possible part of each 'horseshoe' shaped rear a-arm mount where its welded onto
> >the inner fender panel supports. This means four 3/8" holes & six 1/2" holes).
> >Be prepared for a small cascade of talcum powder dust and maybe mud or water
> >from each hole as you break through.
> >
> >The lower frame rails have many 'doublers' welded into them; try not to pick
> >those areas for drilling 'cause the hole's entrance into the inside of such a
> >thick spot will be raised up so water might not completely drain, and because
> >its really difficult to drill these holes with a hand drill anyway; thicker
> >material just makes it worse. Deburr the outside of each hole for neatness, and
> >go for a drive; you'll leave a contrail of brown dust behind you for a few
> >minutes. Then you can touch up each drilled hole with rustproof paint. On cars 
> I
> >have to work on, I first stick a flexible magnet in thru the big oval holes in
> >the frame rail tops. I'm amazed at what I pull or tease out of some Pantera's
> >rails! Bolts, nuts, broken spark plugs, big rocks... you name it... Good luck- 
> J
> >Deryke
> >
> >
> >
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