[DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes

Garth Rodericks garth_rodericks at yahoo.com
Wed Aug 18 04:48:18 EDT 2010


Just a follow-up to last month's thread on chassis drain holes and rust proofing 
the frame rails - what I did and how I did it.
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6450045562/m/215107066?r=606101266#606101266




--- Original Message ---
(http://realbig.com/pipermail/detomaso/2010-July/124552.html)

[DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
Garth Rodericks garth_rodericks at yahoo.com
Mon Jul 19 13:25:53 CDT 2010

FWIW, I've already begun some rust-proofing efforts on my car while the engine 
is out. I ran brushes (and used a screw driver) through the horse shoe section 
of the chassis to loosen scale and debris and blew compressed air in there to 
remove most of the resident crud, gravel, etc that has gathered over the last 28 

years. Next, I'll use my JC Whitney undercoating gun (kit with extension 
wands/hoses to reach into frame rails) to spray Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on 
these interior surfaces. 


Last night I cleaned the area ahead of the gas tank between the outer fender and 

the inner body, just behind the door jamb (B-pillar?). I used long screwdrivers 
to scrap/dig out years of dust build up and a few pieces of gravel, vacuumed it 
out with a shop vac, and blew out any remaining debris with compressed air. I 
did this on both sides of the car and found these areas were solid (my car does 
not get driven in the rain). After cleaning, I coated the area with Rust 
Encapsulator for added protection against the elements and to help prevent any 
future rust. I may also spray some Waxoil or some such solution in there as well 

for added protection.

Anyway, the frame rails will receive the same treatment next!

I might even use Rust Converter in the frame rails before coating with Rust 
Encapsulator.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html

Cheers!
Garth




________________________________
From: boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com>
To: Garth Rodericks <garth_rodericks at yahoo.com>
Cc: JDeRyke at aol.com; DeTomaso Mail List <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Mon, July 19, 2010 8:49:43 AM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes

I had read somewhere that it was also a "good Idea" to take a flexible probe and 

spray either a rust inhibator , tractor oil , or one of those chemical like 
Eastwood sells that converts Ferric Oxide into a hard shell that will prevent 
further oxidation (rust) from occurring. Ant thoughts or comments on this 
strategy?
Boyd


On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 2:52 AM, Garth Rodericks <garth_rodericks at yahoo.com> 
wrote:

Thanks Jack!
>
>Bill Taylor sent me a copy of your excellent article with the illustration of
>where the drain holes should be drilled. It's exactly what I need, and the
>illustration adds nicely compliments your description below. I already have
>drain holes in the horseshoe, but wanted to verify that I have the appropriate
>(number & size) drain holes in the lower frame rails too.
>
>Thanks!
>Garth
>
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: "JDeRyke at aol.com" <JDeRyke at aol.com>
>To: garth_rodericks at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
>Sent: Sun, July 18, 2010 10:37:44 PM
>
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
>
>
>There's no tightly defined place to drill the drain holes. Starting from the
>bellhousing area, drill three (or more) 1/2" dia holes, more-or-less equally
>spaced along the lower rear frame rails. Also drill a 3/8" hole in the lowest
>possible part of each 'horseshoe' shaped rear a-arm mount where its welded onto
>the inner fender panel supports. This means four 3/8" holes & six 1/2" holes).
>Be prepared for a small cascade of talcum powder dust and maybe mud or water
>from each hole as you break through.
>
>The lower frame rails have many 'doublers' welded into them; try not to pick
>those areas for drilling 'cause the hole's entrance into the inside of such a
>thick spot will be raised up so water might not completely drain, and because
>its really difficult to drill these holes with a hand drill anyway; thicker
>material just makes it worse. Deburr the outside of each hole for neatness, and
>go for a drive; you'll leave a contrail of brown dust behind you for a few
>minutes. Then you can touch up each drilled hole with rustproof paint. On cars 
I
>have to work on, I first stick a flexible magnet in thru the big oval holes in
>the frame rail tops. I'm amazed at what I pull or tease out of some Pantera's
>rails! Bolts, nuts, broken spark plugs, big rocks... you name it... Good luck- 
J
>Deryke
>
>
>
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