[DeTomaso] Muffler Opinions

John Taphorn jtaphorn at kingwoodcable.com
Sun Aug 8 20:55:20 EDT 2010


Apparently, we may be closer to removing the restriction in the GTS 
resonator tips than we thought based on feedback from Dan Mixon today..

First, Dan clarified that the concave material connecting the perforated 
pipe to the outside end of the resonator is steel, not a hardened putty or 
ceramic.

Second, using a boroscope, he identified that the perforated pipe in the 
resonator is not the same perforated pipe extending into the muffler.  This 
may explain Drew's anecdote about the perforated pipe falling out of the tip 
after the tip had been separated from the muffler.  Unfortunately, Dan was 
unable to see how the resonator's perforated pipe was connected toward the 
muffler end.

Looks like we are potentially back in business.  I have a 2.5" bi-metal 
holesaw that nicely fits the ID of the main resonator pipe and is larger by 
some measure than the OD of the resonator's perforated pipe.  Of course, I 
am concerned that if I drill out through the front metal connector, the pipe 
will still be welded on the back side.

Almost there

JT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "bill gaino" <gaino at earthlink.net>
To: "John Taphorn" <jtaphorn at kingwoodcable.com>; <MikeLDrew at aol.com>; 
<pantdino at aol.com>; <shawkins777 at comcast.net>; <michael at michaelshortt.com>; 
<wkooiman at earthlink.net>
Cc: <DeTomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Muffler Opinions


>
> Try this link for an internal view 
> http://www.spacecitypanteras.com/Technical/Gutting_the_GTS_Exhaust.htm
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: John Taphorn <jtaphorn at kingwoodcable.com>
>>Sent: Aug 7, 2010 10:00 AM
>>To: MikeLDrew at aol.com, pantdino at aol.com, shawkins777 at comcast.net, 
>>michael at michaelshortt.com, wkooiman at earthlink.net
>>Cc: DeTomaso at realbig.com
>>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Muffler Opinions
>>
>>Mike and others
>>
>>The construction of the resonator tip is different than I thought.  I 
>>assumed that the ceramic(?) material in the tip's end continued through 
>>the resonator.  You are correct that it only positions the metal pipe 
>>inside the resonator tip to the center.  The perforated metal pipe is 
>>exposed the rest of the length.
>>
>>However, now the perforated pipe extraction task is potentially easier.  A 
>>hole saw could be used to drill out the ceramic material that holds the 
>>perforated pipe in place at the resonator's opening.  That done, could the 
>>perforated pipe within the resonator then be extracted?
>>
>>I gutted many of these mufflers and therefore cut those perforated pipes 
>>where they extend into the muffler; however, The perforated pipes were 
>>welded to baffles within the muffler. The gutting process removes those 
>>baffles with the portion of perforated pipe that extended in the muffler 
>>body.  However, I do not recall what is left holding the perforated pipe 
>>in place on the muffler end of the resonator.  This certainly seems to be 
>>an easy method to pick up the additional diameter to go from 1.5" to 1.75" 
>>that is required with a 2.5" exhaust pipe.  Area of 2.5" pipe is ~ 4.9". 
>>Area of two 1.5" pipes (stock size) is 3.52"; 1.75" pipes is 4.8".
>>
>>So, if I use a hole saw to drill out the perforated pipe in the resonator 
>>on the outlet side, will the perforated pipe then pull out of the 
>>resonator?  Anyone have a set of GTS mufflers that are cut open for 
>>inspection?
>>
>>This seems to easy - although, I wish I understood the dilemma when I had 
>>the mufflers cut open; then I certainly could have removed the complete 
>>perforated pipe.
>>
>>JT
>>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>>  From: MikeLDrew at aol.com
>>  To: jtaphorn at kingwoodcable.com ; pantdino at aol.com ; 
>> shawkins777 at comcast.net ; michael at michaelshortt.com ; 
>> wkooiman at earthlink.net
>>  Cc: DeTomaso at realbig.com
>>  Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 9:50 PM
>>  Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Muffler Opinions
>>
>>
>>
>>  In a message dated 8/1/10 17 35 26, jtaphorn at kingwoodcable.com writes:
>>
>>
>>
>>    I would think it possible to drill the resonators to an acceptable ID.
>>
>>
>>
>>  You can't drill a resonator.  Resonators have an inside steel piece of 
>> pipe with holes in it, and rings at each end, which fit the ID of the 
>> chrome tip.  The only thing you can do is remove and replace the 
>> resonator with one of a larger diameter--or remove it entirely.
>>
>>  Mike
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>
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