[DeTomaso] I've got to get going on my restoration

GW gow2 at rc-tech.net
Wed Aug 4 09:53:12 EDT 2010


I guess it does dip a little inside the rails but is actually level with 
the outside of the rails. When I replaced the chin spoiler I made the 
chin spoiler flush at the rear. I welded on a plate to clean up the 
triangle boxes with nuts right in front of the chin, welded on tabs with 
nuts in many locations. By holding it flush with several locations it 
will be mounted well.

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/valance/val31.jpg

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/valance/val33.jpg

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/valance/val25.jpg

The tow straps were removed and removable toe toe hooks welded in. You 
can see the removable tie down hooks toward the bottom:

The tow straps were removed and removable toe toe hooks welded in:

There are a total of about 25 taps or welded on buts to bolt it to 
including bolts in the front rails:

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/paint2/underbelly2.jpg

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/frame/frame2.jpg

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/frame/frame.htm

As I mentioned before all air is ducted out the top of the car. And 
fender vents to help pull air from wheel well:

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/hood/hood.htm

The final sanding and final paint has begun. I have the interior, front 
trunk and about half the chassis final sanded and painted. I am working 
the rear right now:

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/paint1/front3.jpg

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/paint1/int3.jpg

http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/paint1/bot3.jpg

Probably more then you asked.

Gary


















Tomas Gunnarsson wrote:
> Gary,
>  
> I was not thinking about covering the suspension. The part of the pan 
> that has three ribs (marked in red in the attached pic) looks like 
> it's sitting several inches higher from the ground than the rest. I 
> was wondering why as it seems like continuing level with the rest 
> would be more streamlined. Maybe the photo is deceiving?
>  
> Tomas
>
> <-----Ursprungligt Meddelande----->
> From: GW [gow2 at rc-tech.net]
> Sent: 4/8/2010 12:15:08 PM
> To: Tomas Gunnarsson
> Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] I've got to get going on my restoration
>
> Do you mean carrying it forward under the front suspension? It just
> seemed a natural place to start. I can add additional pannels latter as
> needed. This brings it to the back side of the air dam. The back of the
> rear panel is closed off and this aluminum airdam is actually closed off
> in the rear as well. While the bottom of the front well is not covered
> right now the well is isolated from air that otherwise would have been
> coming in from the front.
>
> You don't see it here but the remaining holes here have block off
> plates. Some times you do what you can to start and go from there:
>
> :http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/airdam/ad26.jpg
>
> Gary
>
>
> Tomas Gunnarsson wrote:
> > Gary,
> >
> > Why is the belly pan swooping up between the front wheels instead of
> > going straight forward to the bottom of the valance panel?
> >
> > Tomas
> >
> > <-----Ursprungligt Meddelande----->
> > From: GW [gow2 at rc-tech.net]
> > Sent: 4/8/2010 2:10:58 AM
> > To: John Taphorn
> > Cc: michael at michaelshortt.com,Mike Thomas,pantera list
> > Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] I've got to get going on my restoration
> >
> > If the scoop goes directly to the carb, the aerodynamics inside the
> > engine bay forcing air out will be eliminated.
> >
> > I built a belly pan but it stops just short of the engine:
> >
> > http://www.rc-tech.net/cars2/panttransam/1905/bp/bpd.jpg
> >
> > All air in the front I am directing out of the hood; no air directed
> > under the car:
> >
> > http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/hood/hood.htm
> >
> > Air dam is scratch built:
> >
> > http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/airdam/ad.htm
> >
> > It's beginning to come together now:
> >
> > http://www.rc-tech.net/pantera1/paint1/paint.htm
> >
> > Gary
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > John Taphorn wrote:
> >
> >> Good point and I should have clarified my message.
> >>
> >> I intend to seal the area around each side opening with a cone filter
> >>
> > inside. Then connect the air filters to the carb using 4" tubing.
> >
> >> Summit sells a Spectre part that is able to be customized that may
> >>
> > even work. Although, you would still need to fab the sealed air cleaner
> > boxes. It would be similar to this, yet custom made for the Pantera.
> >
> >> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-252D/
> >>
> >> With this done, next will be an aluminum belly pan under the engine
> >>
> > area. However, that is another chapter.
> >
> >> JT
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: Rob Dumoulin
> >> To: John Taphorn
> >> Cc: Mike Thomas ; michael at michaelshortt.com ; pantera list
> >> Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 7:34 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] I've got to get going on my restoration
> >>
> >>
> >> In a private response, Gudmund below stated that hot air was exiting
> >>
> > his vents at 50-60 mph. If that is so, there is a low pressure area
> > pulling engine air out like a venturi as the air passes along the side
> > of the car. Assuming one put a fairly sealed cold air intake in this
> > area, it would actually be starving the engine of air rather than
> > feeding it.
> >
> >> Does anybody know if there is a low pressure under the stock deck
> >>
> > around the air cleaner with the engine cover installed? I can't imagine
> > the designers would let that happen, but it would deter me from punching
> > a hole through my engine cover and raising the air filter through it.
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>> I have installed those small scopes
> >>> in the side vindow.They look great and are weary easy to
> >>> install. I was just on a group tour to France. There I got
> >>> told there are no air going in those scoops but hot air
> >>> coming out. I thought that was strange so I checked on the
> >>> way back. Held my hand out the window in front of the scope
> >>> and right enough there was hot air coming out going 50 - 60
> >>> mph. But steel look good.
> >>> Best regards Gudmund
> >>> Froiland
> >>>
> >> On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:20 AM, John Taphorn
> >>
> > <jtaphorn at kingwoodcable.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I intend to eventually install a system on my GT5 to draw air in
> >>
> > through the side windows/vents. My aim is to have a source of cooler
> > denser air for the engine. The current flow pattern has us extracting
> > air from the engine bay that is heated as it passes by the headers
> > first.
> >
> >> I have listened to the debate for years about the 4" ear requirement
> >>
> > on the side of the car. The advocates say it is necessary for the ram
> > air effect. That may be so, however, I am not seeking to ram air into
> > the carburetor. We certainly are not benefiting from ram air in the
> > stock configuration, so I don't see why it is postulated as a
> > requirement when ever someone inquires about ingesting air from the
> > side.
> >
> >> I am confident that if the intakes tract is extended to an opening in
> >>
> > the side gill/window even without an ear, the engine will suck in all
> > the cooler denser air that it needs despite the theoretical boundary
> > layer. Lord knows, it certainly rushes into my car when I roll down the
> > driver's window without the benefit of anything, like an intake stroke,
> > creating a lower vacuum.
> >
> >> JT
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Thomas"
> >>
> > <mbefthomas at comcast.net>
> >
> >> To: "'Rob Dumoulin'" <rob at dumoulins.net>; <michael at michaelshortt.com>
> >> Cc: "'pantera list'" <detomaso at realbig.com>
> >> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 11:21 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] I've got to get going on my restoration
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Remember that there has been quite a number of strings regarding the
> >>
> > merits
> >
> >> of side scoops and whether they really do any good unless they stick
> >>
> > out far
> >
> >> enough to extend beyond the boundary layer created by the car. If I
> >>
> > recall
> >
> >> the figure was 6" to 8" out from the side of the car to actually
> >>
> > "scoop"
> >
> >> some air. 'Like Michael said, it's your car, but I sure wouldn't want
> >>
> > mine
> >
> >> looking like Dumbo on wheels . . .
> >>
> >> Something else I would think about too: if your car is an early '71, I
> >> assume it has all the bright work on it (bumpers, mirrors, window
> >>
> > trim,
> >
> >> etc.). I recently saw an ad on EBay for an early '71 with steel group
> >>
> > IV
> >
> >> flares, center exhaust from 180's, etc, and somehow all that just
> >>
> > didn't
> >
> >> look right on a chrome bumpered car, having seen most Grp IV clones
> >>
> > with
> >
> >> bumpers off or all trim blacked out.
> >>
> >> K, that's my .02.
> >>
> >> Mike Thomas
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
> >>
> > [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
> >
> >> Behalf Of Rob Dumoulin
> >> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 6:56 PM
> >> To: michael at michaelshortt.com
> >> Cc: pantera list
> >> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] I've got to get going on my restoration
> >>
> >> Thanks, Mike. Why do I get the feeling you are preparing for a career
> >>
> > in
> >
> >> politics with those two answers? Seriously though, I like the hood
> >>
> > vent
> >
> >> look, want to cut down on under car air pressure while gaining ducts
> >>
> > for
> >
> >> brake air, and want a closed box cold air system. I also considered
> >>
> > cutting
> >
> >> a hole in my engine cover and placing the K&N in colder air above it.
> >>
> > I am
> >
> >> about function on just about everything on the car except the hood
> >>
> > vents.
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> On Aug 2, 2010 8:59 PM, "Rob Dumoulin" <rob at dumoulins.net> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Guys, working out of state is killing my restoration plans and spare
> >>
> > time.
> >
> >> I hoped to be farthe...
> >>
> >>
> >>
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> >> --
> >> Rob DuMoulin
> >> 904.476.8744
> >> rob at dumoulins.net
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