[DeTomaso] Grp 4 air dam

[michael@michaelshortt.com]

Great idea, we used Dzus fastners years ago in the dark ages.

Michael Shortt

On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 4:34 PM, <asajay at asajay.com> wrote:

> There is another option.
>
> Our favorite Race Dog, Dennis, uses rivnuts on the front of the car to
> temporarily mount the front air dam.  The car is driven normally
> without the dam, but when doing an ORR event, the dam goes on with
> about eight bolts.  Then he also bolts on some flexible skirts just
> under the door rockers.  This has worked exceptionally well for him to
> maintain high speed stability.  When mounted, the air dam sits very
> close to the ground, only a couple inches if I recall but it's been a
> while since I looked at it myself.
>
> Asa Jay
>
> Quoting JDeRyke at aol.com:
>
> >
> >  fresnofinches at aol.com writes:
> >> Despite what I was told by one vendor during his repairs to 2511 aftermy
> >> off-road-adventure, there IS more than one way to install thisspoiler.
> The
> >> right way, and the wrong way.   For me the right way is one that lets me
> >> drive around town without tearing it apart on a weekly basis. The vendor
> had
> >> installed it with a MUCH greater angle, and it scraped on just about
> every
> >> driveway in town, including his shop's.
> >>
> > To expand on Larry's nice description above, some people who want to push
> > more air away from the front end in high speed events but cannot afford
> to
> > drive the car that way every day due to constant damage, do several
> things:
> >
> > 1)- I've seen stiff rubber strips bolted/rivited to the bottom of a
> > moderate-angle spoiler to extend it downward without being rigid and
> >  incurring
> > constant road-damage. The rubber should be stiff enough so that high
> >  speed air
> > doesn't fold it back. Can't tell you how stiff it should be; too weak and
> it
> > folds under. Too stiff and you'll still crack the main spoiler on the
> > ground, especially if you're also braking hard in a turn. Far
> > stiffer springs on
> > aftermarket coil-overs might be needed to help combat nose-dive.
> >
> > 2)- Hall used to sell a hydraulic cylinder that looked like a screen door
> > closer hooked to the frame and the front a-arms and driven by an on-board
> > compressor. This when activated raised the whole front some 2-1/2" so as
> to
> > allow one to use public streets with low-mounted air dams. The
> > system may still
> > be available; heavy,complicated and slow-reacting but they did work.
> >
> > 3)- I once had a low-,ounted wrap-around air dam on a non-Pantera
> autocross
> > car. After cracking it three times   on city streets, I fabricated a new
> > center section of 050" sheet aluminum, retaining the stock complex ends
> of
> > fiberglas. The aluminum central dam worked well and could be straightened
> > (weekly!) to look more-or-less OK with pliers and a mallet.
> > Rattle-can touch ups
> > were needed too. The whole rig eventually got to be more trouble than it
> was
> > worth and removed and I sold it to someone more patient than I.
> >
> > Final thoughts: one Pantera owner ran such an airdam on his street car
> and
> > found that on-track, it pushed so much air aside, he burned off a set of
> > brake pads in 1.0 event due to inadequate cooling air to the brakes. This
> had
> > not happened before. He wound up ducting air hoses to the rotors- more
> > complication. Personally, I think low-hanging front spoilers are too
> >  much trouble
> > on the street for the benefits one gets on-track. All the foregoing
> assumes
> > you will actually drive the car on the street as well as at competition
> > events. For show cars, anything's possible at 8-10 mph. Good luck- J
> Deryke
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-- 







Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael at michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390


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