[DeTomaso] Wrong Slave? Re: Clutch woes in Asa's garage

[Julian Kift]

Hmmm..

 

Mikey flying up from CA.....like they say what goes around comes around.... shouldn't it be more a case of Panteras Northwest rounding up a local posse to head out to Asa Jay's to help him out?

 

Julian
 
> From: mbefthomas at comcast.net
> To: MikeLDrew at aol.com; asajay at asajay.com; detomaso at realbig.com
> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 22:36:30 -0700
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Wrong Slave?   Re:  Clutch woes in Asa's garage
> 
> Hey, if you end up having to go to Spokane to bail out AJ, swing by Seattle
> and help me redo my rack . . .
> 
> Mike Thomas 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
> Behalf Of MikeLDrew at aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 10:09 PM
> To: asajay at asajay.com; detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Wrong Slave? Re: Clutch woes in Asa's garage
> 
> 
> In a message dated 9/6/09 21 43 12, asajay at asajay.com writes:
> 
> 
> > With no adjustment to the
> > pushrod (i.e. short as possible), the spring pressure on the piston 
> > now pushes the pushrod against the lever arm to the point the throw 
> > out is
> > -still- against the pressure plate fingers.  Even with the system bled 
> > of air.
> > 
> >>>Of course--that's normal. What else would you expect?
> 
> 
> > So I'm thinking to myself, this is never going to change.
> > 
> 
> Not until you adjust the pushrod length to the PROPER length, instead of 
> just arbitrarily making it as short as possible, which is what it sounds
> like 
> you've done.
> 
> More information is coming forth in each post, and it appears that you are 
> manufacturing your own problem. Before I thought you had a hardware issue,
> 
> but now it's quite likely that it's simply an adjustment issue, if what you 
> wrote above is true.
> 
> As I said before, you need to adjust the pushrod length so that the piston 
> is almost completely retracted in the bore, and the fingers of the clutch 
> arm are just barely touching the throwout bearing. Then, when you apply
> the 
> external spring, it compresses the piston just that much more, and lifts the
> 
> fingers of the clutch arm just barely off the throwout bearing.
> 
> If you are just blindly shortening the pushrod as far as it will go, 
> effectively what you're likely doing is pulling the piston out of the bore
> almost 
> all the way (assuming the fingers of the clutch fork are on the throwout 
> bearing). This leaves almost no room for the hydraulics to do their work.
> 
> Alternately, with the pushrod too short, if you have the external spring in 
> place and it's of the proper strength (strong enough to easily overcome the 
> spring in the slave cylinder), then the piston will be retracted in the 
> bore, and the clutch fork will be miles from the throwout bearing. 
> Application of the clutch pedal will result in tons of movement through free
> space 
> (and a very light pedal), before the fingers finally touch, you get a little
> 
> bit of clutch release, and then the master runs out of steam and you're
> stuck.
> 
> So. Adjust the pushrod to the proper length, with the parameters 
> mentioned above. Install the external spring. Depressing the pedal then
> should 
> result in sufficient movement to release the clutch.
> 
> You have never described the feel of the clutch pedal. What you should 
> have is about 1/2 inch of relatively light resistance (which is simply the 
> external spring on the master, and perhaps the spring on the pedal if it's 
> still functional), then much heavier resistance as the fingers of the clutch
> arm 
> touch the throwout bearing, and the clutch starts to disengage.
> 
> If you don't have that, it's wrong, and that adjustment is entirely in the 
> slave cylinder pushrod length and/or positioning of the arm on the shaft.
> 
> Please don't make me fly up there. I *almost* flew to Spokane today to 
> try to sort things out in person...but resposibilities forced me to fly home
> 
> instead.....
> 
> Mike
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