[DeTomaso] hot start problem solved

[asajay at asajay.com]

No run on at all that I've been able to detect.  When the key is  
released, it turns off the firewall solenoid.  When that releases,  
there is absolutely no voltage/current being applied to the starter  
anymore.  Perhaps you have a wiring problem or the solenoid is  
"sticking."

The other problem could be the starter is not mated correctly  
(interference fit) and the gear is not returning as quickly as it  
should.  It could be sticking to the ring gear due to engine torque.

Asa Jay

Quoting forestg at att.net:

>
>
>  Asa,
> When wired the you describe we have had an issue with a momentary   
> run on when the key is released from the start position. If this   
> isn't happening to you then you are good to go.
> Forest
>  -------------- Original message from asajay at asajay.com: --------------
>
>
>> In a third version...
>>
>> In the case I have wired on my Pantera, I made no changes to the
>> firewall solenoid at all.  This of course introduces an additional
>> voltage drop on the primary cable since it continues to go through the
>> solenoid on it's way to the starter.  Then, at the starter, I have
>> simply jumped the small terminal to the larger battery cable terminal.
>>
>> Advantage:
>> - Install a small jumper on the starter before crawling under the car.
>> - When changing the starter on the car from the old style one wire, to
>> the new DB with integrated solenoid, I didn't have to run any new
>> wires clear back to the firewall solenoid, nor did I have to switch
>> any cables on the firewall solenoid.
>> - Two nuts to remove/install the starter
>> - One nut to remove/install the battery cable.
>>
>> Disadvantage:
>> - Extra voltage drop through the firewall Solenoid on the primary wire.
>>
>>
>> Operation:
>> Works the same as stock, except now at the same time the firewall
>> solenoid provides power to the starter, it also provides power to the
>> starter solenoid.  When the key is moved back to RUN, the firewall
>> solenoid cuts out, removing power to the starter and it's solenoid.
>>
>>
>> It all works fine for me so far.  As long as the firewall solenoid is
>> in good shape.  As Bill says, if all connections were perfect, there
>> would be no worries.
>>
>> Asa Jay
>>
>>
>> Quoting SOBill at aol.com:
>>
>> > FWIW,
>> >
>> > The starter solenoid on the DR starter can be activated two  ways.
>> >
>> > 1) Connect a wire from the small, left hand terminal of the OEM  starter
>> > solenoid on the firewall to the small terminal on the DR starter.  
>>  Power  from
>> > the battery will then go thru the ignition switch terminal block, thru the
>> > ignition switch in the START position, back thru the ignition switch
>> > terminal block, to the OEM starter solenoid small left hand
>> > terminal,  and then to
>> > the DR starter solenoid small terminal. With perfect switches,  terminal
>> > block connections, and perfect wires and crimp connectors,  this   
>> should work
>> > fine.
>> >
>> > 2) The installation that DR recommends is that the small  terminal on the
>> > DR starter be connected to the un  used big terminal on the OEM starter
>> > solenoid where the OEM cable to the starter  motor was connected.
>> > Power to the DR
>> > starter solenoid will now come from  the battery thru the OEM starter
>> > solenoid in the START mode directly to the DR  solenoid small   
>> terminal. This
>> > routing eliminates the voltage drops of the  ignition switch
>> > terminal block, the
>> > ignition switch, and the wiring which is  activating 2 starter solenoids.
>> >
>> > If all the wiring/connections were perfect, either version should  work.
>> > Version 2) eliminates some possible imperfections.
>> >
>> > Have fun,
>> >
>> > SOBill  Taylor
>> > sobill at aol.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
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