[DeTomaso] hot start problem solved

[Larry - Ohio Time Corp]

I know my gear reduction starter has its own built in solenoid. You should
not use the stock firewall mounted solenoid to trip the one on the starter.
You are just adding more resistance and dropping the voltage/amps to the
starter.

I have seen the old solenoid used as a junction block. Battery cable and
starter cable on the same side.

Larry - Cleveland



-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of Dave McManus
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 9:53 AM
To: 'boyd casey'; 'De Tomaso List'
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] hot start problem solved

Boyd,

"...guys at DR insist that the starter be wired differently then the
standard installation as shown in the wiring diagrams."

Differently from our OEM starter wiring or differently than the instructions
from DR?

My DR starter has performed well for about 1.5 years. Just curious.

Thanks
IndyDave

-----Original Message-----
From: boyd casey [mailto:boyd411 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 6:55 PM
To: De Tomaso List
Subject: [DeTomaso] hot start problem solved

I know many of you have suffered the same frustrations I have trying to
resolve a hot start problem. I tried many things like replacing my ignition
block and checking my ignition switch and various grounds and cables. I
bought a DR gear reduction high torque starter and the problem was still
unresolved. I contacted the people at DR ( you may remember a few months ago
there were several posts regarding their $49.99 starter. The are super nice
people. In spite of the fact that I bought my starter 6 months ago they sent
me a replacement within 15 minutes of my calling them. I got an e-mail from
UPS within 15 minutes of hanging up the phone. I had not installed the
starter until last week because of delays in working on my car brought on by
my broken leg. The point of my story is that the guys at DR insist that the
starter be wired differently then the standard installation as shown in the
wiring diagrams. Normally the hot lead goes from the battery to the fire
wall mounted solenoid and then from the solenoid to the starter. many people
then run a small jumper from the small pole on the starter solenoid to the
large pole where the 12 volt line from the fire wall solenoid goes to.  The
people from DR say you must run the 12 volt line from the HOT SIDE of the
fire wall solenoid directly to the large pole on the starter solenoid. In
other words you have a constant hot 12 volts at the starter at all times.
You then run a small wire (that they include) from the switched side of the
fire wall sloenoid to the small pole on the starter solenoid that triggers
the starter when you turn the ignition switch. I was amazed by the
difference. My starter rips now when I start it and at full operating
temperature there is virtually no difference in the starting power.  If you
have been having this problem I strongly recommend you try their starter and
this wiring plan. ( I also ran a new ground strap from one of the starter
studs to the chassis)
Boyd


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