[DeTomaso] Connecting A High Torque/Gear Reduction Starter In APantera

[Doug Braun]

SO Bill,

	I'm confused.  You said, "It seems the solenoid of the new starters require
more current than the OEM ignition switch START position wiring can handle."
Then why (below that) did you then say "you can dump the OEM starter
solenoid".  Or did I miss something?

About a year ago when I installed my new starter DB Electrical permanent
magnet starter, I measured the solenoid engagement current at 13 Amps which
is an amount I'm also uncomfortable with passing through the ignition
switch.

Doug Braun
blue 73L #5505

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
[mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]On Behalf Of SOBill at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 4:07 PM
To: MikeLDrew at aol.com; detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Connecting A High Torque/Gear Reduction Starter
In APantera


Mike,


Boyd411 wired his new starter just as you suggest. He  found that the
starter cranked a cold engine slowly and could barely  crank a hot engine.
When
he changed the wiring for the solenoid of the new  starter to be activated
via the OEM solenoid direct to the battery his  starter performed perfectly
hot or cold. It seems the solenoid of the new  starters require more current
than the OEM ignition switch START position wiring  can handle.

The OEM solenoid serves as the source of battery voltage  measurement for
the alternator regulator and can be used to activate the white  wire of
Duraspark ignitions when starting the car as well as bypassing the  ballast
resistance. The Duraspark white wire retards the ignition timing when  the
engine
is cranking. This retarding the ignition during cranking makes life  easier
for the starter.

If you have an after market ignition with no ballast resistor and a  one
wire alternator you can dump the OEM starter solenoid.

Have fun,

SOBill  Taylor
sobill at aol.com



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