[DeTomaso] Pandora

[cengles at cox.net]

Dear Chris, 

Yes, you should go back to the engine builder. 

I believe it can be fixed by dropping the oil pan if you have a removeable crossmember, but I understand it can be a PITA. When my engine builder (me) made this mistake on engine build #2, I decided that pulling the engine and reviewing the entire crankcase and seals would let me properly fix the problem with the added benefit of full access to the whole kit and kaboodle. 

The engine rookie, Chuck Engles


---- Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com> wrote:
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>Great. So, 1) I should go back to the engine builder (I assume so)?
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>and the million-dollar question; 2) does the engine have to be pulled again?
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>Thanks,
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>Chris
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>Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 10:32:57 -0400
>From: cengles at cox.net
>To: chrisvkimball at msn.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pandora
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>Dear Chris,
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>Umm, bad news. When my freshly built engine did that, it was due to a
>faulty engine builder (me) and the rear main seal......sigh. Good luck.
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>Warmest regards, Chuck Engles
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>---- Christopher Kimball <chrisvkimball at msn.com> wrote:
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>>I need some advice again.
>>
>>I was crawling around under the car
>(the new motor ran great yesterday but I thought I should re-tighten a
>few things, just in case) and I notice a small oil stain on the floor,
>maybe the size of a dollar bill. I went under the car and found oil
>seeping from between the engine and the large, thin metal plate that
>bolts to the ZF--I think it's called the inspection plate, but I'm not
>sure. It looks like very clean motor oil, but I suppose it could be
>clutch fluid.
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>>What could this mean?
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>>Thanks,
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>>Chris
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>>PS: The oil pressure runs about 65 to 69
>lbs when driving, 35 when idling. This is much higher than my old
>motor. Is that normal?
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