[DeTomaso] Help needed with clutch slave

[forestg at att.net]

 Mike,
You are making this way too complicated.
Chris,
Screw the stop bolt in a couple of turns and then check the free travel of the pedal. Keep doing this until there is about 1/2" of free travel at the pedal and you are good to go.
Forest
 -------------- Original message from MikeLDrew at aol.com: --------------


> 
> In a message dated 5/7/09 23 37 18, chrisvkimball at msn.com writes:
> 
> 
> > I think it's the pedal.  It feels like nothing is engaging until the 
> > pedal has been pushed about an inch down, then it seems as if all the action 
> > happens after that.
> > > >
> > >>>>That means that for the first inch of pedal travel, you're not > actually releasing the clutch.   The clutch fork inside the bellhousing is 
> just 
> > swinging through free space, doing nothing, until it finally touches the 
> > throwout bearing which then starts to release the clutch.   You have adjusted 
> > the pushrod on the slave cylinder much, much too short.
> > 
> > >I'm afraid I don't understand.  If I turn the screw to begin pulling out 
> > the piston, that would be like pushing the pedal part way down, and isn't 
> > that partially engaging the clutch?  I've heard that's a bad thing to do.
> > 
> >>>This presumes that your pushrod was properly adjusted.   You're looking 
> for a certain overall length of the piston/pushrod combination such that the 
> face of the piston in the slave cylinder is as far up into the slave 
> cylinder bore as possible, and the fingers of the clutch fork are almost (but 
> not 
> quite) touching the throwout bearing.   The factory specification is just a 
> hair over three inches for the overall pushrod length, but that is for a 
> stock slave, and stock clutch.   Since you have all aftermarket components now, 
> you have to determine the correct distance by feel (although it will 
> probably be something close to that).
> 
> Disconnect the spring from the clutch arm.   Remove the pin connecting the 
> pushrod to the clutch arm.   Remove the bottom snap ring holding the slave 
> cylinder in its bracket, and slide it up an inch or two to get it out of the 
> way.
> 
> You can now easily move the clutch arm by hand.   You will easily feel 
> where the fingers of the clutch fork touch the throwout bearing.   Back it off a 
> hair; that's now the target location when everything is put back together.
> 
> Lengthen the pushrod whatever amount you deem necessary (your first guess) 
> and then slide the slave back down, reconnect it to the clutch arm, and 
> secure the bottom snap ring.   Chances are that it will be somewhat difficult to 
> slide the slave back into position, because the piston will naturally want 
> to extend, and you'll be compressing it as you're sliding the slave down.
> 
> By trial and error, you should be able to adjust the length of the pushrod 
> so that when the piston is almost fully compressed, the clutch fork will be 
> just slightly off the throwout bearing.   It's a good idea to leave just a 
> small amount of space inside the slave cylinder, to allow for clutch wear.   
> (As the clutch disc wears thinner, the fingers on the clutch will 'grow' 
> rearward, and there needs to be a little free space in the slave cylinder to 
> account for this, or else the fingers on the clutch fork will start resting on 
> the throwout bearing, burning it up and possibly causing the clutch to 
> slip).
> 
> When you first step on the clutch pedal at this point, there should be 
> relatively little motion at the clutch arm, and perhaps a half-inch of free 
> motion at the pedal, before you feel a marked difference in your foot and the 
> clutch begins to release.   This ensures that you are getting the most out of 
> the available pedal travel, using almost all of it to actually control the 
> clutch.
> 
> You don't want the fingers to be touching all the time, because the 
> throwout bearing will burn up and the clutch may slip.
> 
> Does that all make sense?   It sure sounds confusing to me....:>)
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
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