[DeTomaso] Bypass (Re: thermostats)

Thu Jun 25 09:35:59 EDT 2009

Hi John,

I would heat the thermostat in water till it opened 100%. At that point
measure the opening distance. After it cools make some blocks to force it
open to the same amount. Use a torch to heat the spring till it holds it at
the measured point. This way you can do your testing with cool water. 

In the day I used a viscosity cup to test paint before spraying, to make
sure it was reduced (thinned) enough. You can do the same thing for this
test. If you mount a thermostat housing on the bottom of a coffee can you
can dunk it in a bucket of water many times to time how long it takes to
drain.

5 gallons of boiling water can make one big hurt!

Larry (play safe) - Cleveland

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of John Taphorn
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2009 8:26 AM
To: David in Durango; detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Bypass (Re: thermostats)

David says

> Make yourself a flow bench - Smokey did!
>
The complication is keeping the coolant hot enough during the test to keep 
the thermostat open so as it will flow.

My though was to have a five gallon pot of boiling awwter flow through the 
housing and measure how long it took to drain the pot..  I've got a big 
turkey fry pot, but it seems the set up would be a real PIA

JT
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John Taphorn" <jtaphorn at kingwoodcable.com>
> To: "Barry Seib" <oldwheel at mts.net>; "DetomasoList" 
> <detomaso at realbig.com>; "Asa Jay Laughton" <asajay at asajay.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 8:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Bypass (Re: thermostats)
>
>
>> Barry
>>
>> I've assumed that the Stant flows superiorly.  However, I would like to 
>> make
>> a comparison test.  Other than measuring the speed in which a caldron of
>> boiling water is drained, I'm unsure how to conduct the test.
>>
>> Although, I am confident that Goran may have a solution.
>>
>> I'd like to buy the Stant from you, let me know your price.
>>
>> Thanks
>> JT
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Barry Seib" <oldwheel at mts.net>
>> To: "DetomasoList" <detomaso at realbig.com>; "Asa Jay Laughton"
>> <asajay at asajay.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 11:18 AM
>> Subject: [DeTomaso] Bypass (Re: thermostats)
>>
>>
>>> It doesn't matter which location you block. I put an expansion plug in 
>>> the
>>> center of the copper disc in the engine outlet. Others use a thin sheet 
>>> to
>>> block the bypass at the pump joint gasket. Either way, you are 
>>> eliminating
>>> the leakage of hot coolant back into the engine without going  to the 
>>> rad.
>>> Some aftermarket pumps don't even have a bypass passage. My flowkooler 
>>> has
>>> the bypass, so I had to block it.
>>>
>>> When the Cleveland style stat is fully open (hot) the foot on it still
>>> allows some coolant to flow back to the engine, bypassing the rad. In
>>> theory
>>> this should be an insignificant amount, but in a marginal system with 
>>> long
>>> pipes, I wonder how much it contributes to the issue? I looket at the 
>>> gap
>>> and it seemed like it would be a loss. I'm using NPGR coolant, so I want
>>> the
>>> absolute maximum flow I can get. If I have to convert back to ehylene
>>> glycol, my cooling system will be optimised already.
>>>
>>> Barry
>>>
>>>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> ----
>>>
>>> Okay, so if a person uses a remote bypass thermostat, what do you do
>>> with the thermostat area in the block?  There is a bypass passage
>>> where the thermostat goes which the -special- 351C thermostat closes
>>> when the stat is fully open.  So do we block that?  Or must you make
>>> the water pump mod instead, which installs a small shim of steel to
>>> block the recirculation path?
>>>
>>> Pardon me for my confusion, I'm not studying this very hard.  (trying
>>> to get some real work done in between emails)
>>>
>>> Asa Jay
>>>
>>> Quoting Barry Seib <oldwheel at mts.net>:
>>>
>>>> Jack
>>>>
>>>> I bought a very good remote bypass thermostat from Evans Coolant(E3005
>>>> Remote by-pass thermostat 195°)
>>>> http://www.evanscooling.com/main1.htm - go to catalog then Thermostats
>>>> and
>>>> caps. $99.95  I'm quite happy with it.
>>>>  It is made by Behr in Germany and has the least restriction I could 
>>>> find
>>> in
>>>> a remote bypass stat. Evans said it was about the same restriction as 
>>>> the
>>>> high flow Robert Shaw type in the engine. I previously special-ordered
>>>> the
>>>> Stant model 135478 that was recommended in John's article, but found it
>>>> lacking in flow capacity. I still have it new in the box if anyone 
>>>> wants
>>> to
>>>> use it.
>>>>
>>>> Barry
>>>>
>>>
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