[DeTomaso] thermostats

[Doug Braun]

Thomas,

	The four brands of 351W thermostat I've tried were drastically different
from each other in how far they extend when hot.  For those using a 351W
T-stat in a 351C it's quite plausible that the longest of them will hit a
"freeze plugged" orifice in a 351C block when hot which will prevent them
from fully opening.  If you don't have access to a good thermometer, measure
the thermostat in boiling water to check how far it extends and compare that
to the space available in the block.  Better yet, place the thermostat in an
oven with a metal ruler alongside, take the temperature up to about 250F,
and see if it extends further at 240F than it does at 212F.  Don't to too
hot though; some thermostats have a fail-safe design where they permanently
stick open when overheated.

Doug Braun
blue 73L #5505

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
[mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]On Behalf Of Thomas Tornblom
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 12:05 PM
To: Charles McCall
Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] thermostats


Charles McCall skrev:
> Jack, didn't you find about 5 years ago or so that there was something
funky
> with your thermostat housing or some part of the cooling system that
> physically sideloaded the thermostat causing your premature failures?

I found that the windsor style thermostat would hit the freeze plug that
was installed instead of the plate in my original motor when it opened
fully. Over time that made the thermostat crooked so that it didn't work
properly after a while.

The thermostat sits a bit low in the block, and if one blocks off the
warmup passage, it would probably be a good idea to install a spacer
under the thermostat so that it has plenty of space to operate.

I do think that blocking the passage and using a remote bypass
thermostat is probably the best solution to the problem.

I'm now using a proper block plate and a proper Cleveland Robertshaw
thermostat, and I haven't had any problems with it.

Oh, btw Charlie, your suggestion about shimming the steering rack may in
fact be a good advice. I took it for a drive this afternoon, and I now
notice a distinct play in the steering wheel with the wheels pointing
straight.

Thomas


>
> Annually failing thermostats aren't one of the traits that Panteras are
> known for... I hate to tempt fate, but I've never had one go bad, and my
> current Robert Shaw is 9 years old.. It would make me think that there is
> something specific in your application as opposed to the root cause being
> the thermostat per se...
>
> Then again maybe I imagined it, but I thought I remembered you saying that
a
> light bulb came on several years ago while re-hashing the cooling system.
>
> Charles McCall
> 1985 DeTomaso Pantera GT5-S #9375
> "Raising Pantera Awareness Across Europe"
> http://www.poca.com/index.php/gallery/?g2_itemId=2323
> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] En
> nombre de JDeRyke at aol.com
> Enviado el: miércoles, 24 de junio de 2009 20:06
> Para: cengles at cox.net
> CC: detomaso at realbig.com
> Asunto: Re: [DeTomaso] thermostats
>
> In a message dated 6/24/09 6:28:06 AM, cengles at cox.net writes:
>
>> I am very interested. Is it possible that you've hit on one of the most
>> elusive factors in the variability (or unpredictability?) of Pantera
> cooling
>> systems-----the unassuming "correct" thermostat??? Publish that article
>> soon.
>>
> OK. My interest is, although I can use about any old thermostat in our
> 351C- even ones for Chevys, they only last 1 year before they start that
> cycling
> between full-open and full-closed that someone wrote about. While its only
> annoying, its an expense and a chore I can do without. Cheers- J Deryke
>
>
>
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--
Real life:   Thomas Törnblom             Email:  Thomas.Tornblom at Hax.SE
Snail mail:  Banvallsvägen 14            Phone:    +46 18 444 33 21
              S - 754 40 Uppsala, Sweden  Cellular: +46 70 261 1372

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