[DeTomaso] Fw: Re: Gas Tank Sealing

[mark skwarek]

--- On Fri, 6/5/09, mark skwarek <ehpantera at yahoo.com> wrote:


From: mark skwarek <ehpantera at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Gas Tank Sealing
To: JDeRyke at aol.com
Date: Friday, June 5, 2009, 2:41 PM







Thanks for the info. Fortunately I have a spare tank that is very dry. I had checked my fuel filter and it is full of junk.  Just pulled my motor yesterday after dropping a valve. I just want to address whatever issues I can before the new motor goes in later thiis week.
Mark

--- On Fri, 6/5/09, JDeRyke at aol.com <JDeRyke at aol.com> wrote:


From: JDeRyke at aol.com <JDeRyke at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Gas Tank Sealing
To: ehpantera at yahoo.com, detomaso at realbig.com
Date: Friday, June 5, 2009, 2:23 PM


In a message dated 6/5/09 9:02:26 AM, ehpantera at yahoo.com writes:


'm looking for a recommendation for a gas tank sealant .
 
IF you have only a small pinhole-leak thats visible from outside, one cheap, easy way that works is to clean the area with solvent (making sure the fuel level is below the problem area), then coat the area with some BONDO! If its larger than a pinhole, coat a sheet-metal screw with Bondo and run it into the hole, covering the head with more Bondo. Bondo is totally fuel-proof as I found out years ago. Note- this probably won't work on a leaking seam, 'cause you likely won't find the exact leak area, and tanks flex a little, cracking any large areas of hard sealant. 
If its a whole area thats corroded, you should pull the tank and get it brazed up by an expert. There are sloshing compounds available, but many react badly to additives sold in our gas, and since the type of additive varies from month to month and  gas station to station, these coatings may work for a while, then fail. When they do, the loosened compound will plug up EFI components and carb jets, and cleaning the mess is often impossible. Most coating compounds were developed to use on a tank thats out of the vehicle and can be turned and shaken; the first were for fiberglas motorcycle tanks. IMHO, if the tank must come out anyway, brazing is better.
Finally, if you simply have a rusty tank, fill the thing with a dilute solution of Phosphoric acid (used as concrete driveway etch). You WILL need the tank drain plug to be freed up so the acid can be drained after an overnight soak, and rinsed thoroughly. Phosphoric acid reacts mostly with rust, not clean steel, so you'll wind up with a nice clean, WHITE tank inside, well coated with white iron phosphate that will permanently stay in the tank. 
Do NOT use Sulfuric acid (also sometimes sold as driveway etch): this stuff attacks anything it touches!  Acid-cleaning has the advantage of not needing the tank to be pulled- just stirred a little thru the sender hole.    My 2¢- J Deryke


**************
We found the real ‘Hotel California’ and the ‘Seinfeld’ diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com. (http://www.whereitsat.com/#/music/all-spots/355/47.796964/-66.374711/2/Youve-Found-Where-Its-At?ncid=emlcntnew00000007)