[DeTomaso] Signal light switch
SOBill at aol.com
SOBill at aol.com
Mon Jul 13 01:20:31 EDT 2009
EA, Here's the scoop on fixing turn signal switches:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
The turn signal switch has several common points of failure for which I
have implemented fixes.
The only thing I haven't been able to fix is if the main module, which is
the guts of the thing, is truly broken. I have fixed dozens of switches so
far, and have seen about one unit in ten with this problem. I was given a
box of old turn signals which had been replaced when NOS replacements were
still available, so I have a good supply of spare parts. Unfortunately, all
the fully usable spare main modules have been consumed.
If your main module is not broken, the switch can be repaired and will be
fully functional. If your main module is truly broken, the switch can still
be repaired and all the functions will work EXCEPT the turn signals must
always be canceled manually. The Pantera vendors sell OEM switches for near
$500 and an adaptation of a Lucas switch for near $400.
I charge $50 to repair and rework the turn signals including return
shipping. I do not insure the return shipment and do not want your shipment
insured. I do not use insurance so that the shipment will be left at the
destination, even if no one is there to sign for it. For the time it takes to
completely repair the switch and install the strength improvements, my labor
rate works out to be somewhat less than Wal Mart pays their greeters.
Ship the turn signal, uninsured, to:
Bill Taylor
23420 Shadycroft Ave
Torrance, CA 90505
USPS Priority Mail is as fast as anything else and is cheaper. I have
never had USPS lose a switch.
So, mail it on down. It will be returned in less than a week.
To remove the switch, you must drop the steering column.
Go to a hardware store and get two 8 x 1.25 mm x 40 mm (about 1 ½ inch)
bolts. Longer is better. Do not try this without the 8 x 1.25 mm bolts.
Remove one of the steering column two rear clamp bolts completely. Screw one of
the new long bolts into the hole where you removed the first regular bolt.
Remove the second rear bolt. Screw the second long bolt into the second
hole. Remove the remaining two front bolts (mine are Allen head) and drop the
column down. The long bolts will support the column, but more important,
they will align the column clamp holes when you put the whole thing back in
place with only two hands and limited tolerance for frustration. You will
thank me for this method, believe me.
Remove the screws holding the switch cover in place. Remove the screws
holding the switch clamp in place. Unplug the switch harness. Put the various
bolts, screws, and the cover in a baggie. You can drive the car without the
switch but you will have no headlights, turn signals, or horn.
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I'm not tooting my horn, but the switches are quite complicated to
disassemble, repair, and reassemble. This is not a job you want to learn.
SOBill Taylor
sobill at aol.com
In a message dated 7/12/2009 6:01:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
eanderson at geotracinternational.com writes:
Hello all.
What are the options for repairing the switch when it won't stay engaged?
I am currently 800 km's into a 2,400 km tour (currently in beautiful
Penticton, BC, Canada) and I'm wondering if I should attempt to repair while on
the road.
Thanks in advance for your advice!
EA
#3528
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