[DeTomaso] Stubbon Heater valve removal

[Asa Jay Laughton]

I got the heater valve removed today.  Earlier in the day I took a small 
thin woven shop towel and soaked a four inch strip with some penetrating 
oil.  I wrapped it around the joint and did other odd jobs for a couple 
of hours.  Coming back, I made sure I had a good grip on the valve and 
attempted to turn -it- instead of the threaded fitting on the copper 
line.  It came loose beautifully with a little nudge of torque.  Once 
loose it came apart smoothly.

Off to the bench where I took it all apart, cleaned and re-assembled 
it.  It moves very smooth now, almost too smooth.  I'm worried the 
o-ring isn't going to seal the cylinder anymore.  The o-ring was in good 
shape, but maybe it's a little shrunk.  It offered no resistance when 
re-assembling.

Has anyone had luck sourcing a new o-ring for the heater valve locally, 
like at Napa?

Thanks,
Asa Jay

Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired

& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA

1971 Mach I Mustang  [ASA JAY]
1973 Pantera L 5533  [ASASCAT]
    
******************************     
http://www.asajay.com
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JDeRyke at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/10/09 10:05:31 PM, asajay at asajay.com writes:
> snip.....
>   
>> - I can't get the heater valve removed.  It seems stuck tight to the 
>> fitting.  I'm afraid of breaking the copper tubing that disappears into the 
>> heater box.  Advice?
>>
>>     
> Can you back-up the wrench on the valve so ALL the applied torque is taken 
> up in a second wrench on the heater line nut? 'Cause if not, the line WILL 
> crack, forcing the removal of the dash, heater box and heater/A/C cores 
> before you can replace or repair it. If its that tight, you may want to either 
> leave it alone and wait for expert help, or try rebuilding the valve in-place 
> (which can be done if you're flexible enough and have the required tiny 
> o-ring). I can't think of another reason to remove the valve. Good luck- J 
> Deryke
>
>
>
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