[DeTomaso] headlights work but buckets to not raise up

[boyd casey]

What you need to do is remove the wire from the limit switch that lowers the
head lights  BEFORE you crank them up. This will prevent them from going
down again when you turn off the lights. I had the same problem and I got
the Pantera electronics headlight controller. It does away with the
antiquated relay and has led's that show you the status of all your light
circuits. (it also isolates your headlights from the ignition circuit like
Mikes wiring plan  Mosley kit. The difference is that this is a much more
modern approach using solid state electronics and computer chips. It also
does not turn on your lights until the doors are all the way open which
saves on electrical draw ( something neither other solution does) It may be
as simple as a loose wire or it is often the result of one of the two limit
switches having gone bad. In any case it should be relatively easy to
diagnose. If you would like to bring the car over I will be glad to help you
sort it out. I have done it and converted my car to the Pantera electronics
headlight controller so I am very familiar with the system.It can be very
confusing because the motor raises and lowers the headlight buckets by
changing the polarity of the headlight motor through the use of the
headlight limit switches. I am home almost all the time due to my leg so
just let me know if and when you would like to come over. You can also help
me  by starting my car and pulling it out of my garage for me. I have been
unable to get into the garage or my car in a month.
Boyd

On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 1:06 AM, <MikeLDrew at aol.com> wrote:

>  In a message dated 7/3/09 4:35:50 PM, LEVITT1946 at aol.com writes:
>
> > I would like to do some nightime driving except my buckets do not raise
> > up. I can see that the headlights are on but buckets do not move at all.
>
> Bob--your headlights worked before, did they not?   What (if anything) have
> you changed?   If your lights worked properly before and suddenly stopped,
> the chances are most likely that either one of your limit switches has
> failed, or (*much* more likely) you toasted your headlight switch by
> running
> high-powered headlamps without properly isolating the switch using relays
> to
> actually power the lamps.
>
> On your cross-country drive, were you driving at night using the high
> beams?   If you have whippy-dippy halogen lights installed, that's a good
> way to
> sizzle the switch.   Assuming your switch is bad, simply replacing it will
> restore proper function to the lights--for awhile.   But you're just
> waiting
> to burn up another switch.
>
> The smart call is always to rewire the headlight circuit to incorporate
> relays for the lamp power, both low and high beam.   You can either do it
> yourself following any of a number of wiring schematics that are out there
> (including mine), or you can do it the easy way with a plug-and-play wiring
> kit by
> Rick Moseley, Rich Boschert, or Bob Timma.
>
> When you order your new switch, be sure to specify whether you want a
> 1971/Euro style (with a symbol of a headlight) or a '72-74 USA-style (with
> the
> word LIGHTS).   Wilkinson seems to have the best prices on switches these
> days, as he's tooled up to produce a jillion of them recently.
>
> And finally, JDeRyke at aol.com writes:
>
>
> > And unless you are lucky, once they're up, switching on
> > the ignition will instantly lower the lights...
> >
>
> ...unless you manually raise the lights, then turn on the headlight switch
> *before* you turn on the ignition switch.
>
> Mike (been there, done that, raised 'em by hand twice, learned my lesson
> the second time!) :>)
>
>
>
>
> **************
> Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the
> grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood00000005)
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