[DeTomaso] Torquing head studs/nuts Re: Another Grenade Job - (sorry long)

[Asa Jay Laughton]

Okay, so Will used all head studs and presumably nuts on them torqued to 
spec.  However, in an earlier post, he also mentioned how it seemed like 
those on the exhaust port side were not as tight when he went to 
disassemble the head.  So here are my questions.

Is there a different torque procedure that should be used with regard to 
studs versus bolts?
Is there a difference in how to install the stud that could possibly 
make them loosen up versus the torque on the nut?
Is it a good practice to go back and re-torque the nuts on the studs at 
some interval?

I'm curious as I had thought of going the stud route at some point and 
am worried by Will's finding.

Thank you,
Asa Jay


Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired

& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA

1971 Mach I Mustang  [ASA JAY]
1973 Pantera L 5533  [ASASCAT]
    
******************************     
http://www.asajay.com
http://www.teampanteraracing.com
  



wkooiman at earthlink.net wrote:
> I didn't use studs & bolts.  I used all studs.
>
> I removed the outermost studs to make it easier to remove the heads.
>
> The rods are SCAT H-beam.  I have the box with the PN at home.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>   
>> From: jderyke at aol.com
>> Sent: Dec 28, 2009 1:42 PM
>> To: detomaso at realbig.com
>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Another Grenade Job - (sorry long)
>>
>> In a message dated 12/27/09 10:01:10 PM, asajay at asajay.com writes:
>>
>>     
>>> I see studs installed at the top but nothing at the bottom.  If this is 
>>> the case, I'm wondering what others may think about:- using a combination of 
>>> studs and bolts
>>> - using all studs and what the re-torque procedure on them should be.
>>>
>>>       
>> If your engine used a torque plate during final honing AND you used both 
>> studs and bolts then as during assembly, I see nothing wrong except for the 
>> complication this brings- changing sockets etc. Studs will distort the 
>> cylinder walls differently than bolts when tightened, which is why you should not 
>> torque-plate-hone with one combination, then switch to another for use. 
>> Re-torquing should be the same although some say that one should bring the torque 
>> level up in 4 stages of only 25-30 ft-lbs in each stage -not necessarily 
>> with studs or bolts but with iron heads to prevent cracking. I also like 
>> composite head gaskets which are more forgiving in torquing and in use than steel 
>> shim head gaskets. But none of this will cause broken rods. What brand of 
>> rod failed, Will? Curious- J Deryke
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