[DeTomaso] cabin heat-A/C
JJD1010 at aol.com
JJD1010 at aol.com
Sat Dec 5 14:46:29 EST 2009
John,
Heat needs to be reflected and blocked. Sound needs to be absorbed and
blocked. So, it depends on how far you want to take it.
Most importantly, I'd start with the CoolCar Ceramic, or a similar product,
for a couple of reasons. It's thin and lightweight, it blocks heat and
sound, it helps stop rust, it seals any little holes and gaps which is
important for sound. I'd use it in the engine bay. (I also recommend coating the
entire passenger compartment and don't forget under the car over the coolant
tubes. But that's beyond the scope of your project.) Then I'd add a
sound/heat absorber like Thermozite
_http://www.stockinteriors.com/HeatSound.asp?Itemid=4783_ (http://www.stockinteriors.com/HeatSound.asp?Itemid=4783) or
Koolmat _http://www.koolmat.com/main.htm_ (http://www.koolmat.com/main.htm)
or similar products, since they also have a reflective barrier.
If you want to really stop sound get something like LComp
_http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html_ (http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html) and glue it to the
firewall before using the Thermozite or Koolmat. Make sure it uses closed
cell foam. This might be overkill!
Don't forget the inside of the Firewall where I'd use Dynamat or Brown
Bread. Brown Bread actually gets better marks and used to be cheaper than Dynam
at. Unfortunately, you can only get it by mailorder.
_http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html_ (http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html)
I don't have any test results but the difference in sound level with my
windows closed and open is significant. In fact, I frequently open them to get
more sound from the engine! And heat hasn't been an issue, even here in
Texas.
Jeff
6559
(http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html)
More information about the DeTomaso
mailing list