[DeTomaso] cabin heat-A/C

JJD1010 at aol.com JJD1010 at aol.com
Sat Dec 5 14:46:29 EST 2009


John,
 
Heat needs to be reflected and blocked. Sound needs to be absorbed and  
blocked. So, it depends on how far you want to take it.
 
Most importantly, I'd start with the CoolCar Ceramic, or a similar product, 
 for a couple of reasons. It's thin and lightweight, it blocks heat and 
sound, it  helps stop rust, it seals any little holes and gaps which is 
important for  sound. I'd use it in the engine bay. (I also recommend coating the 
entire  passenger compartment and don't forget under the car over the coolant 
tubes. But  that's beyond the scope of your project.) Then I'd add a 
sound/heat absorber  like Thermozite 
_http://www.stockinteriors.com/HeatSound.asp?Itemid=4783_ (http://www.stockinteriors.com/HeatSound.asp?Itemid=4783)  or  
Koolmat _http://www.koolmat.com/main.htm_ (http://www.koolmat.com/main.htm)  
or  similar products, since they also have a reflective barrier. 
 
If you want to really stop sound get something like LComp 
_http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html_ (http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html)  and  glue it to the 
firewall before using the Thermozite or Koolmat. Make  sure it uses closed 
cell foam. This might be overkill!
 
Don't forget the inside of the Firewall where I'd use Dynamat or Brown  
Bread. Brown Bread actually gets better marks and used to be cheaper than  Dynam
at. Unfortunately, you can only get it by  mailorder. 
_http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html_ (http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html) 
 
I don't have any test results but the difference in sound level with my  
windows closed and open is significant. In fact, I frequently open them to get 
 more sound from the engine! And heat hasn't been an issue, even here in  
Texas.
 
Jeff
6559
 (http://www.b-quiet.com/lcomp.html)  



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