[DeTomaso] cabin heat-A/C

Larry Finch fresnofinches at aol.com
Sat Dec 5 12:24:22 EST 2009


Random cooling thoughts in addition to those already mentioned:

• R-12 is a better refrigerant than R-134.  Harder to find, harder to  
service, but better. Just wait another ten years and you'll be having  
trouble get an R-134 system serviced, too.

• If starting from scratch, replace all your hoses and make sure your  
fabricator uses  the newer "barrier" hose.  And where you can (depends  
on what existing components you use versus newer units) switch over to  
the 0-ring fittings rather than the older flare fittings.

• Wilkinson for sure offers a redesigned under-dash evaporator.  Less  
heating coils, more cooling coils.

• Dump the York compressor in favor of a Sanden SD-508.  These come  
with R-12 or R-134 fittings. Do not in any case buy a rebuilt  
compressor, and be very cautious of the knock-off "Sanden style" China  
units. Most of the hot rod market chromed units are from China. The  
R-12 Sanden model number is U-8390.

• Add a Trinary switch into your system. This will shut off the  
compressor if pressure is too high (frozen, blocked lines) or too low  
(lost freon) and keep the compressor from destroying itself.

• Consider swapping the stock 2-speed dash blower fan for a 3-speed.

• ALWAYS get a new drier when working on an A/C system.  Picking one  
with a switch port makes the Trinary switch addition much neater and  
cleaner.

• Relocate the coolant lines to run through the right-rear wheel well  
and enter the rear mounted condenser through a new, added hole.

• Consider putting the drier inside the right-rear wheel well.  Quella  
does this, makes the engine bay cleaner, but makes the bubble-viewing  
port very hard to view. Use a mirror.

• Consider relocating the condenser  and drier to in front of the  
radiator, if you have added sucker fans.

• Remember the small screen hidden inside the evaporator-mounted  
expansion valve. It can clog.

• Prepare to spend money.  :-)

Larry=



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