[DeTomaso] cabin heat-A/C
Larry Finch
fresnofinches at aol.com
Sat Dec 5 12:24:22 EST 2009
Random cooling thoughts in addition to those already mentioned:
• R-12 is a better refrigerant than R-134. Harder to find, harder to
service, but better. Just wait another ten years and you'll be having
trouble get an R-134 system serviced, too.
• If starting from scratch, replace all your hoses and make sure your
fabricator uses the newer "barrier" hose. And where you can (depends
on what existing components you use versus newer units) switch over to
the 0-ring fittings rather than the older flare fittings.
• Wilkinson for sure offers a redesigned under-dash evaporator. Less
heating coils, more cooling coils.
• Dump the York compressor in favor of a Sanden SD-508. These come
with R-12 or R-134 fittings. Do not in any case buy a rebuilt
compressor, and be very cautious of the knock-off "Sanden style" China
units. Most of the hot rod market chromed units are from China. The
R-12 Sanden model number is U-8390.
• Add a Trinary switch into your system. This will shut off the
compressor if pressure is too high (frozen, blocked lines) or too low
(lost freon) and keep the compressor from destroying itself.
• Consider swapping the stock 2-speed dash blower fan for a 3-speed.
• ALWAYS get a new drier when working on an A/C system. Picking one
with a switch port makes the Trinary switch addition much neater and
cleaner.
• Relocate the coolant lines to run through the right-rear wheel well
and enter the rear mounted condenser through a new, added hole.
• Consider putting the drier inside the right-rear wheel well. Quella
does this, makes the engine bay cleaner, but makes the bubble-viewing
port very hard to view. Use a mirror.
• Consider relocating the condenser and drier to in front of the
radiator, if you have added sucker fans.
• Remember the small screen hidden inside the evaporator-mounted
expansion valve. It can clog.
• Prepare to spend money. :-)
Larry=
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