[DeTomaso] how much $ is a 351 C 4 bolt block usually

Julian Kift julian_kift at hotmail.com
Fri Aug 7 23:52:35 EDT 2009


Any used block is a roll of the dice, even std bore.

 

My advice save your money and put a deposit on one of Todd Buttermore's new heavy duty Cleveland blocks. Yes they are still development, but if you can wait should be well worth it. I think the iron version was targeted at under $2K, my deposit is on one of the Aluminum ones.

 

Julian
 
> From: wkooiman at earthlink.net
> To: fresnofinches at aol.com; detomaso at realbig.com
> Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 14:35:58 -0500
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] how much $ is a 351 C 4 bolt block usually
> 
> I bought a std bore 4-bolt in Texas for $350 about 2 years ago. I had
> taper, so I bored it 0.030. It still had a small pit, but rather than
> boring it any more, I left the pit there. After all, I need an excuse if
> J.T. out HP's me at a dyno day.
> 
> I bought a std bore 4-bolt about 5 years ago (in Texas) for $300 or $350. I
> can't remember. I sold it to a local mbr.
> 
> I won a block on e-bay that was listed locally. It was a 2-bolt and bored
> to 4.030. I got it home, test fit my pistons, and could tell right away it
> wasn't 4.030. I turned out to be 4.040. The dirtbag wouldn't return my
> money. Long story. He initially offered to return my money, but then
> offered another block. Weeks became months, and he finally gave me a sob
> story that he didn't have the money anymore. At any rate, it was $350, but
> it was already bored.
> 
> There's 3 data points - for Texas.
> 
> Oh yeah, one more. There's a guy that sells Aussie 351C blocks. You can
> debate whether they're better or the same as U.S. blocks. Regardless,
> they're $300-$500, and all 2-bolts. You can find his website with google.
> 
> If it's standard, be advised that there will likely be rust pits that won't
> bore out at 0.030.
> 
> One more note: I decked my block. One side was 0.010 higher than the
> other. Going from memory - I believe the compression ratio was 0.5 to 1
> higher on one side.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
> Behalf Of Larry Finch
> Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 2:21 PM
> To: detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] how much $ is a 351 C 4 bolt block usually
> 
> "Good condition" is a rather subjective term.
> 
> I obtained a free 351C block, and wanted to see if it was worth saving/ 
> building.
> 
> Found out that hot tanking, magnaflux testing, sonic wall testing, etc 
> will cost $150-$250.
> 
> Keep that in mind when buying a block.
> 
> And it goes without saying, in a 351C thin wall casting, famous for 
> core shifting, a virgin block (never rebuilt) and thus still with a 
> 4.00 cylinder bore diameter, is probably the only block even worth 
> considering in the first place.
> 
> You can go and pull your own Cleveland engine (complete) from some old 
> station wagon or Ranchero at a Pick-a-Part for what, $250 or so? And 
> they have half price weekends, and if it is cracked you can get 
> another for a replacement with your labor. That is obviously not a 
> choice all will want to take, though.
> 
> To answer your question, I would not pay more than $200 for a pig-in-a- 
> poke block. Craig's list, at least around here, has entire engines 
> for that price on a fairly regular basis.
> 
> Larry
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