[DeTomaso] how much $ is a 351 C 4 bolt block usually

Will Kooiman wkooiman at earthlink.net
Fri Aug 7 15:35:58 EDT 2009


I bought a std bore 4-bolt in Texas for $350 about 2 years ago.  I had
taper, so I bored it 0.030.  It still had a small pit, but rather than
boring it any more, I left the pit there.  After all, I need an excuse if
J.T. out HP's me at a dyno day.

I bought a std bore 4-bolt about 5 years ago (in Texas) for $300 or $350.  I
can't remember.  I sold it to a local mbr.

I won a block on e-bay that was listed locally.  It was a 2-bolt and bored
to 4.030.  I got it home, test fit my pistons, and could tell right away it
wasn't 4.030.  I turned out to be 4.040.  The dirtbag wouldn't return my
money.  Long story.  He initially offered to return my money, but then
offered another block.  Weeks became months, and he finally gave me a sob
story that he didn't have the money anymore.  At any rate, it was $350, but
it was already bored.

There's 3 data points - for Texas.

Oh yeah, one more.  There's a guy that sells Aussie 351C blocks.  You can
debate whether they're better or the same as U.S. blocks.  Regardless,
they're $300-$500, and all 2-bolts.  You can find his website with google.

If it's standard, be advised that there will likely be rust pits that won't
bore out at 0.030.

One more note:  I decked my block.  One side was 0.010 higher than the
other.  Going from memory - I believe the compression ratio was 0.5 to 1
higher on one side.


-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of Larry Finch
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 2:21 PM
To: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: [DeTomaso] how much $ is a 351 C 4 bolt block usually

"Good condition" is a rather subjective term.

I obtained a free 351C block, and wanted to see if it was worth saving/ 
building.

Found out that hot tanking, magnaflux testing, sonic wall testing, etc  
will cost $150-$250.

Keep that in mind when buying a block.

And it goes without saying, in a 351C thin wall casting, famous for  
core shifting, a virgin block (never rebuilt) and thus still with a  
4.00 cylinder bore diameter, is probably the only block even worth  
considering in the first place.

You can go and pull your own Cleveland engine (complete) from some old  
station wagon or Ranchero at a Pick-a-Part for what, $250 or so?  And  
they have half price weekends, and if it is cracked you can get  
another for a replacement with your labor.  That is obviously not a  
choice all will want to take, though.

To answer your question, I would not pay more than $200 for a pig-in-a- 
poke block.  Craig's list, at least around here, has entire engines  
for that price on a fairly regular basis.

Larry
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