[DeTomaso] Rear Brake Pad pins

[Mike Thomas]

AJ, just grind them down a bit, that's what Doug and I have done.  Then,
after your brakes are back on the car, take it to Les of Schwab and have
them do a pressure bleed.  It will be the best $50 bucks you ever spent
(since that girl in Vegas, no, wait, that wasn't you.  Sorry).
Mike Thomas 

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of Asa Jay Laughton
Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2009 12:20 PM
To: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: [DeTomaso] Rear Brake Pad pins

Point of clarification:

The pin on the piston side pad is -necessary- to keep the piston from
rotating.  The pin is supposed to fit in the groove on the face of the
piston.  Porterfield welds a pin on the back of the pad.  However, as
shipped, they are TOO LONG, and must be shortened.  DO NOT grind it flat to
the back of the pad.  If you do so, there will be nothing keeping the piston
from rotating, and if it does, then it will "unlock" and you won't have any
brakes.

So to clarify, I simply ground the pin enough that it fit properly and
allowed the piston face to carry weight against the back of the pad, and
-not- the pin.  Hope that helps.

Asa Jay

Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired

& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA

1971 Mach I Mustang  [ASA JAY]
1973 Pantera L 5533  [ASASCAT]
    
******************************     
http://www.asajay.com
http://www.teampanteraracing.com
  



Asa Jay Laughton wrote:
> Things are starting to come together nicely.  All my brakes are now 
> installed (no fluid or bleeding yet).  Another Caution, when using the 
> Porterfield rear pads, you -must- grind or file down the pin on the 
> back of the piston side pad, otherwise you -will- punch a hold in the 
> piston... and you really don't want to do that.  I ground mine down 
> with a Dremel (yea, yea... I lack the basic he-man shop tools), until 
> it cleared the groove in the piston.
>   
>
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