[DeTomaso] NEW TO RACING - WOT IS THE RIGHT RACE OIL & OIL COOLER - Oil, re-hash
Mad Dog Antenucci
teampantera at yahoo.com
Sun Sep 7 22:43:14 EDT 2008
Sounds good Asa.
Where do I send that $1,800 for that cooling kit?
Sounds real cool
Dennis
Asa Jay Laughton <asajay at asajay.com> wrote:
Always nice to see a newbie, congratulations on finding the best Pantera
connection on the Internet thingy today.
Although you may find several opinions on what oil and oil cooling
system work best, I have this secret formula that has worked for
decades. It's called "The Airborne Cooling System." It's consists of
several pieces, some of which you must hand fabricate, and takes at
least a weekend to install, probably more if you aren't familiar with
the layout of a Pantera.
The parts list:
- Stainless overbraided hydraulic line with AN6 fittings.
- One line at six feet
- One line at four feet
- Two lines at two feet
- A handful of body grommets that fit the hydraulic lines
- Two bypass oil filter assemblies
- One garden variety spray nozzle, horizontal pattern (you don't want
anything that sprays a quarter circle, half-circle, etc.)
- One sheet of HVAC galvanized sheet metal (you know, the kind they make
your heating ducts out of)
- One galvanized automotive use funnel
- One remote operated ball valve (or themo-activated valve coupled with
a forward speed sensor)
Assembly:
- Using the appropriate AN adapter fitting, attach the six foot
stainless overbraided line to the 351C engine block at the port just
above the fuel pump. (you'll find it on the drivers side, with a plug
filling the hole).
- Run the other end of this line to the front of the Pantera, you may
need to drill holes in the chassis portions that hold the coolant
tubes. Use body grommets to protect the hydraulic lines.
- Loop the line 180 degrees so it is facing the rear of the car and
secure in this position.
- Attach the remote operated ball valve to the end of the line.
- Attach the sprayer nozzle to the other end of remote operated ball
valve, adjust so the spray pattern is parallel to the road surface and
underbody of car, and faces the rear.
- Run the remote control into the cabin within easy reach of the driver.
- Using the appropriate AN adapter fittings, now attach one of the two
foot lines to where the oil sending unit is located at the upper rear of
the engine block. Using the right adapters, you should still be able to
use the sending unit.
- Mount the two remote oil filter adapters to the cross-member behind
the engine, commonly called "the spreader bar." Secure in such a
position that you can get the oil filters on and off without
difficulty. Otherwise you'll have to remove the ZF transaxle from
underneath the car to access the filters.
- Attach the other two foot section of line between the remote mount
filter assemblies.
- Attach the hanging end of the line from the block (at the sender unit)
to one of the remote oil filter assemblies.
- Attach the remaining four foot line to the other end of the remote
filter assemblies and route it to the rear of the car just below the A/C
condenser fan.
- Using tin snips, aviation snips and/or whatever other sheet metal
tools you have, create an open ended box approximately four foot wide
and four inches tall. Make it about eight inches deep and taper the
back end so it comes to an opening approximately the diameter of the
large end of the funnel.
- Attach the funnel, if possible with a slight angle upward.
- Mount the box below the frame, between the exhaust pipes, just below
the A/C condenser. Face the open end toward the front and the funnel
end toward the back.
- Attach the other end of the four foot hydraulic line to the end of the
funnel.
- Seal the box with solder or RTV if you don't have a big enough
soldering iron.
- You are done.
Theory of Operation:
- Ensure the ball valve is closed when first starting the vehicle.
- In normal operation, you will only open the valve while the car is in
motion
- When in motion over 45 MPH, and the operating temperature of the oil
exceeds your desired run temp, open the valve.
- Excruciatingly hot pressurized oil will then be routed to the spray
nozzle, which will fan out the oil in little droplets under the car in a
horizontal pattern.
- The airflow of the car between the wheels will keep the pattern to
within four feet
- The tiny droplets will be able to transfer heat 1000 times faster
than any other method known to date
- Oil is cooled by both ambient air transfer and wind chill transfer
- Laminar flow at the boundary layer underneath the car will prevent
the oil from touching either the car or the roadway.
- The now cold oil is then collected by the catch box at the rear of the
car without losing a drop.
- Air pressure created by the movement of the vehicle above 45 mph
reintroduces pressure to the oil system as it pushes the now cool and
thicker oil through the funnel to the first remote oil filter.
- The first oil filter removes any road debris that may have been
suspended in the cooled oil particulates.
- The second oil filter removes any fine particles the first filter
failed to remove
- The air-pressurized oil then returns to the engine at the oil sending
unit location where gravity now assists in the return to the engine of
the now quite cold oil.
Note on operation:
- Never open the valve below 45 mph.
- Always close the valve before decelerating below 45 mph.
- Change the first remote filter every 100 miles or every 10 days,
whichever comes first.
- Change the second filter every 300 miles or 30 days, whichever comes
first.
- If using the themo/speed activated valve, set the thermostat to your
desired cooling temp, and the speed sensor to 45 mph.
- test the operation of the valve for both speed and temp prior to
plumbing the first line.
If you run this system, I can almost (but not quite) guarantee you will
beat that old fart across the finish line at Silver State. If you like,
I do sell these as a kit. Please understand I have quite a markup and
the shop making the oil catcher/pressurizer assembly doesn't make these
for cheap either. Email me personally, the kit runs about $1,800 but
are well worth it since I've already done all the research, include all
the right high quality parts and all you have to do is bolt it on.
Let me know if you want one, if not, let us know how your build goes and
if you beat the old man.
Asa Jay
PS, run a good synthetic oil, they last longer.
Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA
1973 Pantera L 5533
[ASASCAT]
******************************
http://www.asajay.com
http://www.351c.info
Mad Dog Antenucci wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am new to the De Tomaso List....
>
> I want to go real fast like all you guys and collect that $ 1,000, 000 dollar wager from Mad Dawg for anyone who can go faster then him at Silver State in two weeks. Isn't he the old blind disabled hard of hearing dude?
>
> Can one of you veteran Pantera racers please share your race secrets on what the right oil and oil cooler is so I don't overheat my Pantera?
>
> Dennis, who has changed oil and oil coolers 3 times in 2 days ;-]>
>
>
>
>
>
> Asa Jay Laughton wrote:
> I did a few hours of searching and reading on the Internet yesterday.
> Phosphorus is -not- the same as zinc, it's a different compound serving
> a slightly different purpose, one that is usually coincidental with
> zinc, but if the zinc is not listed as being in there, then I'm not
> really interested.
>
> I read a -lot- about Mobile 1 yesterday and it was not good. However,
> if they reformulated it recently, it may be different. I think from
> everything I read yesterday, David Adin's list was pretty much tops, and
> I discovered Amsoil has high concentrations of zinc in most their oils
> as well. Since I'm an old Amsoil fan (who lost my way for several
> years), I'll be going back now. :)
>
> Asa Jay
>
> Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
>
> & Shelley Marie
> Spokane, WA
>
> 1973 Pantera L 5533
> [ASASCAT]
>
> ******************************
> http://www.asajay.com
> http://www.351c.info
>
>
>
>
> jefude at bellsouth.net wrote:
>
>> Asa Jay,
>> This topic has been making the rounds on every conceivable motor/car/.truck /motorcycle related forum for over a year. Opinions are widespread and have no general consensus.
>>
>> Check out this spec sheet link to Mobil 1. It was updated in 5/08. It clearly shows the phosphorus level which is also the ZDDP level . Correct guys ? Levels very from 800-1600. The 15-50 I run in #4134 is listed at 1200.
>>
>> http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
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