[DeTomaso] Another disappointment

Christopher Kimball chrisvkimball at msn.com
Sat Sep 6 00:58:46 EDT 2008


Dear Mike,

I talked with Doug tonight and he helped me troubleshoot the problem.  You were right, it was the solenoid, but the problem was an intermittent ground to the frame of  the solenoid.  I ran a jumper to ground and it started working, so I'm back in the game!

Thanks for all your help.

Sincerely,

Chris

From: MikeLDrew at aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 21:12:27 -0400
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Another disappointment
To: chrisvkimball at msn.com; chrisp at microsoft.com; mbefthomas at comcast.net; jeffrey.g.kimball at boeing.com; doug1 at gtcinternet.com; tim.brennan at msn.com; reillyms at gmail.com
CC: detomaso at realbig.com



In a message dated 9/5/08 17 45 1, chrisvkimball at msn.com writes:





If I were to guess the problem might be the starter (which was replaced less than 2000 miles ago), would that be my best starting place?





If you guess the problem lies with the starter, then yes, the starter is the place to start. :>)



But I wouldn't necessarily make that assumption.   You said you just changed the solonoid (on the firewall), and so I would suspect a goof-up there first.   You never stated that when you turned the key, the solonoid actuated (it makes a distinct click or thunk).   So it's likely that either the solonoid has failed, or there is a problem upstream.



It's easy enough to test--first, turn the key and listen for the solonoid to actuate.   If it does, then you either have a connection problem or a starter problem.   If it doesn't then you either have a bad solonoid, bad connection from the ignition switch wire, or the problem lies upstream, i.e. bad connection in the harness where the ignition switch connects to the car wiring harness, or a bad ignition switch.



If the solonoid doesn't engage, then with the car in neutral, disconnect the wire from the solonoid that comes from the ignition switch.   Fabricate a jumper, and hold one end against the 12V terminal on the solonoid coming from the battery (so that it is getting constant 12V power), and touch the other end to the now-disconnected terminal on the solonoid.   The solonoid should close (it makes a pronounced thunk) and the starter should engage.



If the solonoid doesn't close, then the solonoid is the problem.   If it does, and the starter doesn't turn, then the starter (or the connection between the solonoid and the starter) is the problem.   



I'm willing to bet that you have a loose connection at the solonoid, or a bad solonoid.   So I'd concentrate there first--check all your connections, most especially the main battery cables to and from the solonoid.



Let us know what you find out?



Mike


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