[DeTomaso] Slippage in 4th gear, Clutch recommendations?

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

In a message dated 10/12/08 1:25:00 PM, brogers at optonline.net writes:

> now I need a clutch. I plan to do this myself over the winter and I'm 
> looking for a recommendation on parts and potentially a website that has decent 
> instructions specific to the ZF/Pantera.
> 
> To verify my diagnosis... in 4th when I gas it it revs and doesn't go 
> anywhere. When not hard on the throttle in 4th it's there but when I accellerate it 
> just revs
> 
Before buying stuff and pulling the ZF, are you very sure what you already 
have is correctly adjusted? First, check for the amount of free play at the 
slave cylinder, Try to move the bellcranthe slave cylinder rod is attached to. If 
there's NO free play, its possible the clutch is already pre-loaded to the 
point that its half-disengaged at all times. I found this condition last year on 
a Pantera that was being driven around with difficulty. The adjustment is all 
external: remove the pin holding the slave cylinder rod to the bellcrank 
lever. Careful of your fingers- it may snap violently once the pin is out. Then 
remove the pinchbolt & nut holding the splined bellcrank lever to the cross-shaft 
in the bellhousing. Push the slave cylinder rod as far into its cylinder as 
possible and while holding it there, return the bellcrank lever onto the cross 
shaft a few splines away from where it was. This should give a bit of freeplay 
and allow full holding power to the clutch. 
Warning: DO NOT FORCE!   The splined bellcrank lever is cast steel and will 
not accept much prying or side-loads without snapping in two. They are not 
repairable and no OEM parts are available- only used one$.
You'll likely have to go thru all this with any replacement clutch anyway, 
especially if you're planning on piecing together a replacement not from a 
Pantera vendor. The Pantera clutch was a special assembly and a Mustang 351-C 
clutch will not fit a Pantera without considerable changes. For instance, the Long 
clutch centrifugal assist-weights will bolt up fine but will crash into cast 
braces inside the bellhousing, breaking parts and likely stopping your heart 
the first time you fire the engine. You'll have to pull the ZF again to remove 
the shrapnel.

Once the new clutch is in, have a friend mat the clutch pedal while you shove 
a feeler gauge thru the bellhousing access hole. Ideally, an 0.040" strip 
will go in between the flywheel & clutch disc. Most cars only get about 0.030-or 
less. Less clearance = more ZF synchronizer drag each time you shift. A ZF 
synchro set from RBT Transmissions is around $2200.... Good luck- J Deryke



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