[DeTomaso] Engine/ZF pull - instructions & recommendations?

tony DiGiovanna tonydigi at optonline.net
Wed Nov 5 18:00:11 EST 2008


1.  1 1/2 hrs is smokin'.  It takes me 6.  How long does it take you?
Actually, it takes me 3, 2-hr sessions between 8 and 10pm, when the kids are
asleep and I'm not.  Remember, 12 going back in includes re-assembly of the
engine from long-block starting point, incl. new gaskets, new hoses,
intake, carb, fuel pump, waterpump, clutch, everything.
2.  Mostly because it just makes the job easier.  Because all that clap trap
gets caught on firewall and engine bay on the way out, which may be fine for
you if you have an ugly ass stock engine bay and cheap ass stock
distributor.   But if you don't want to scratch it all up or bend a billet
distributor, take it off first.
3. Crouching in the bay may be easier for some, but at 6'2" and 45yrs of
age, I can do any two of the following three:  Crouch in the bay, remove
driveline bolts, breath.
4. Yeah, that reminds me:  Don't forget to unscrew the speedo cable from the
ZF.


-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
[mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]On Behalf Of MikeLDrew at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 1:28 AM
To: tonydigi at optonline.net; detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine/ZF pull - instructions & recommendations?



In a message dated 11/4/08 20 24 18, tonydigi at optonline.net writes:


> I've done it so many times now, I know predictably it will take me 6 hrs
to
> remove and 12 hours to re-install, including bolting the bits back onto
the
> long block.
>
>>>Holy smokes?   What on earth are you doing?   P.J. Couillard filmed
himself doing the job once; he drove the car into the garage and in an hour
and 15
minutes, the engine and gearbox were sitting on the ground.

SIX hours???


> To maximize your happiness, take the carb off.  I also take the intake
off.
> Take the distributor out.  Take the alternator off.  take the dipstick
off.
> Take the thermostat housing off.  Take the water pump pully off, if not
the
> whole water pump, take the A/C-alternator bracket off, don't forget to
take
> the e-brake cables out of the braket mounted under the ZF.
>
>>>Okay.   Now I know why it takes you six hours???

Tell me--why don't you take the speedometer out of the dashboard while
you're
at it, and maybe remove the headlight buckets too. :>)

Seriously--why are you wasting your time taking the whole motor apart in the
car?   When the car was built, the complete engine and gearbox were neatly
slotted in, and they will slot out together just as neatly.   Removing the
distributor cap is a good idea (not the distributor though) to protect the
back
window, and of course you have to disconnect the water hose to the water
pump, the
hard pipe for the thermostat housing, the throttle cable, exhaust, shift
linkage, and driveshaft bolts.   And electrically disconnect the alternator,
and
remove the A/C compressor/bracket.   But that's it.


> The rest is pretty basic.
> My least favorite part:  Undoing the 8 bolts that hold the halfshaft to
the
> ZF- ow my aching back.
>
>>>I do that job while crouching inside the engine bay.   It's agonizing if
you try to do it bending over the side of the fender.

Mike



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