[DeTomaso] Engine/ZF pull - instructions & recommendations?

cengles at cox.net cengles at cox.net
Wed Nov 5 10:27:49 EST 2008


Dear Scott,

Do you have a removable cross member?

Warmest regards, Chuck Engles


---- Scott Couchman <scottcouchman at yahoo.com> wrote:
>Chuck, You're right, removing the 6 bolts allows you to lift straight up and get the weight off of the mounts. Then remove the angled bolts and the lower mounts drop off. This allows the engine to come back when you raise the ZF to clear the back of the engine compartment. I reverse the process when reinstalling. I have a 10qt pan and the stock crossmember, so the tricky part is getting the lower rear edge of the pan to clear the leading edge of the crossmember. Without the loadleveler, I can't get there. But, I'm VERY careful to get the front of the loadleveler very close to the plate that attaches to the top of the intake manifold. I've pull and reinstalled my engine 5 times in the last 10 months, so I've gotten tooo good at it. Scott
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>--- On Wed, 11/5/08, cengles at cox.net <cengles at cox.net> wrote:
>From: cengles at cox.net <cengles at cox.net>
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine/ZF pull - instructions & recommendations?
>To: scottcouchman at yahoo.com
>Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
>Date: Wednesday, November 5, 2008, 6:46 AM
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>Dear Scott and Tony,
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>Interesting discussion on R&R
>drivetrain techniques.
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>I had not removed the six lower
>bolts holding the motor mounts on. I had always removed the two angled
>bolts in the upper motor mount. I suppose that removing the six lower
>bolts for the lower motor mount would permit a straight lift up
>slightly and then out. Seems like a good idea.
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>I remove the carb and
>distributor cap only from the top of the engine.
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>I found the load leveler to be a
>problem. It my experience, it decreased the working room above the
>drivetrain and produced an embarrassing dent in the undersurface of the
>rear roof requiring a gentle fix by my friendly paint and body man.
>Oops.
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>Warmest regards, Chuck Engles
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>---- Scott Couchman <scottcouchman at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>I'm no
>expert, but I've pulled my engine/ZF several times in the last year.
>
>>
>>First on the stud vs bolt, I switched from studs to hex bolts after
>reviewing the change with RBT
>>I can remove the rear ZF mounts from
>the ZF with an end wrench.
>>This allows me to remove the ZF without
>removing the engine.
>>I've only done this once, but I was glad I
>had the option.
>>Removing the ZF alone is MUCH easier than removing
>the engine/ZF
>>
>>As for removing the engine, I recommend
>removing and replacing the engine/ZF as a unit
>>The one totally
>necessary tool is a load leveler. I would not attempt to remove
>>an
>engine/ZF without one. Other than that, I can pull mine by myself in
>less than a day.
>>Remove the 6 bolts that secure the engine mounts
>and the 2 bolts that secure the ZF
>>Lift the engine/ZF and remove
>the engine mounts
>>Lift the rear of the ZF and more the engine/ZF
>to the rear to clear the roof
>>Lift the engine/ZF and level it out
>over the rear of the body. Engine/ZF are out.
>>Install in the
>reverse order.
>>Not the end of the world.......
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