[DeTomaso] Engine/ZF pull - instructions & recommendations?

[cengles at cox.net]

Dear Larry, 

My *guess* would be that it would be prudent to remove the velocity stacks (??) from the top of the Webers to lower that height as much as possible. 

180 headers ? Hmm, while I *guess* it should be possible to pull the drivetrain with them attached, I would want a real close look at how much space there is around them. This sounds like a question for the inimitable Mr. Antenucci. It should also be noted that there is more than one type or arrangement of 180 headers and the answer may not apply to all of them. 

Webers and 180s? Larry: start spending money and bolting on parts! You can do it. 

Warmest regards, Chuck Engles 



---- Larry - Ohio Time Corp <larry at ohiotimecorp.com> wrote:
>Follow up questions.
>
>Can Weber carbs be left on the motor?
>
>Can 180 headers be left on the motor?
>
>Larry (someday) - Cleveland
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
>Behalf Of cengles at cox.net
>Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 9:47 AM
>To: scottcouchman at yahoo.com
>Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine/ZF pull - instructions & recommendations?
>
>
>Dear Scott and Tony,
>
>Interesting discussion on R&R drivetrain techniques.
>
>I had not removed the six lower bolts holding the motor mounts on. I had
>always removed the two angled bolts in the upper motor mount. I suppose that
>removing the six lower bolts for the lower motor mount would permit a
>straight lift up slightly and then out. Seems like a good idea.
>
>I remove the carb and distributor cap only from the top of the engine.
>
>I found the load leveler to be a problem. It my experience, it decreased the
>working room above the drivetrain and produced an embarassing dent in the
>undersurface of the rear roof requiring a gentle fix by my friendly paint
>and body man. Oops.
>
>Warmest regards, Chuck Engles
>
>
>
>---- Scott Couchman <scottcouchman at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>I'm no expert, but I've pulled my engine/ZF several times in the last year.
>>
>>First on the stud vs bolt, I switched from studs to hex bolts after
>reviewing the change with RBT
>>I can remove the rear ZF mounts from the ZF with an end wrench.
>>This allows me to remove the ZF without removing the engine.
>>I've only done this once, but I was glad I had the option.
>>Removing the ZF alone is MUCH easier than removing the engine/ZF
>>
>>As for removing the engine, I recommend removing and replacing the
>engine/ZF as a unit
>>The one totally necessary tool is a load leveler. I would not attempt to
>remove
>>an engine/ZF without one. Other than that, I can pull mine by myself in
>less than a day.
>>Remove the 6 bolts that secure the engine mounts and the 2 bolts that
>secure the ZF
>>Lift the engine/ZF and remove the engine mounts
>>Lift the rear of the ZF and more the engine/ZF to the rear to clear the
>roof
>>Lift the engine/ZF and level it out over the rear of the body. Engine/ZF
>are out.
>>Install in the reverse order.
>>Not the end of the world.......
>_